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It's Time For Change 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ron Olsen and Bob D'Antonio, 1/20/09
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,714
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jan 20, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (63)
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Lucy cleaning the anchor on It's Time For Change.

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  • Description 

    It's Time For Change is dedicated to Barack Obama, who was inaugurated as the 44th President of the United States on the day of the first ascent.

    Fun moves and exhilarating exposure make this one of the best moderate routes at the crag.

    Climb Night Moves past the first three bolts to a good ledge. Continue up a short right-facing corner to another ledge. Stem up a steep dihedral and pull left onto an airy arete (crux). Follow the arete to the anchor.

    Note: Climb almost straight up the arete; don't go too far left or you'll miss the bolts and the anchor.

    Location 

    On the big shelf on the left side of the Bihedral, where Night Moves and Diamonds and Rust begin. The route shares the first three bolts with Night Moves before splitting off to the left.

    Protection 

    8 bolts and three optional gear placements (yellow Alien, green #.75 and yellow #2 Camalots). Two-bolt anchor with lowering hooks. Strong leaders may be happy with just the bolts.


    Photos of It's Time For Change Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Fredrik enjoying the slab before the fractured ar√...
    Fredrik enjoying the slab before the fractured ar√...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Getting ready to mount the very fractured arete.
    Getting ready to mount the very fractured arete.

    Comments on It's Time For Change Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 11, 2017
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Jan 26, 2009

    Nice addition guys. I was wondering if someone else would have put up a commemorative route on such an auspicious day. My own commemorating was a new crag, Inaugural Crag, and a new route installed, prepped, and ready to go, but not yet red pointed (Ascendancy). The change has begun.
    By John Maguire
    From: Boulder, CO
    Feb 7, 2009
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Really fun route and great place to climb sport. Nice to see you on the climb, Ron. Thanks again for all your work here.
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 22, 2009

    Fun route with some wild moves! Let's hope the crux block doesn't feel it's time for change. There are several loose appearing blocks near the crux but upon closer inspection they seem solidly wedged.
    By jcntrl
    From: Smoulder, CO
    May 9, 2009
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Beware some loose rock in the crack near the crux block towards the top. It shouldn't be a problem, just be mindful of what you pull on (as you should always...).

    Bolts are where you need 'em, but there is a section of fairly runout easy climbing. No problem; bring some gear if it makes you feel better, or just keep your wits about you as you make easy moves to the next bolt.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    May 12, 2009

    Fun route, but there is some very suspect rock making up the arete. Hope it does not "Change" any time soon.
    By Sonny Jeon
    May 20, 2009

    Good fun route with some nice exposure. There is definitely some loose rock. I nearly pulled off a chicken head while climbing it near the second bolt. Looks like people use that hold a lot, and it's bound to go sometime. Some of the boulders on the arete also looks suspect. They are bomber now, but may loosen up after time.
    By Tom Shelly
    Aug 25, 2009

    I also agree with the previous post's about the large rock right below bolt #7 at the crux. It was very loose when I arrived at the crux and I stopped the climb because of it. It needs to be cleared off safely by strapping it and lowering it down. Being that it is right at the crux, I would not climb this route till it is taken care of properly.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 16, 2010
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    The loose block is a detractor. That thing is more than big enough to kill a belayer or several people on the lower left crag. It would pinball down the corner right to the belayer too- so death is not some remote possibility, it is real. This should be cleaned in a controlled fasion with a verified CLEAR lower tier.
    Otherwise, the route is long and varied, and so not bad.
    By David A
    From: Amsterdam, Netherlands
    Sep 21, 2011

    I'm down for the trundling expedition for the loose block.
    By George Bracksieck
    May 4, 2012

    Seems like all of the loose blocks are still there. The 15x12-inch block wedged like a chockstone may actually help keep the much bigger one on its right from collapsing to the left. Maybe better to leave it. Just above, the next-to-last (7th?) bolt is placed in a big block that vibrated when I pounded on it with my hand. Alpine training or Russian roulette?
    By A. Bandos
    Apr 17, 2014

    I found this route a lot of fun. Very varied compared to all the other slab routes nearby. A little spicey with bad landing if you don't use any cams.

    That big loose block by the 7th clip is still there. It made a grinding sound when I unknowingly pulled on it.
    By Seb303
    From: Denver, CO
    Nov 5, 2015
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    I led this route on Sat. Oct. 31st with only quickdraws. It this is a 5.8, every other 5.8 in the upper tier needs to be downgraded to a 5.7. I've led them all, and the difficulty is no comparison to this route. I did not encounter any loose rock at the crux or on the arete others have spoken off. I really enjoyed this climb and will climb it again soon bringing some cams next time and specifically looking for loose rock. I rate this a 5.9 grade. It's a 5.8+ in the BC guidebook.
    By Dawson Botsford
    Nov 17, 2015

    Do not climb! Read Tom and Tony above.

    I quit the climb at the crux, because I heard the rock moving on a hand jam just before you climb left to the arete. I abandoned the climb and made it home safely.

    Stay off until it falls. The loose piece was even with the chains (and 15 feet left) of the route right Night Moves.
    By Will Davis
    From: Denver, CO
    Jan 18, 2016

    The death rock near bolt 7 is ready to go and is extremely loose. This route is not worth climbing, I highly recommend avoiding it until the rock (that others have also mentioned above) falls. If it fell and hit someone, it could easily kill them. It's also possible that it could go all the way to the road.
    By Gregger Man
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Jun 5, 2016

    Death block on the arete is gone.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Jun 5, 2016

    The discussion surrounding the loose block on this route can be found here:

    mountainproject.com/v/bocan-ro...
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Jun 7, 2016

    Climbed this today after the block had been removed. No change in the grade of the route. No need to bring any trad gear for this route.
    By Matt Bentley
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 4, 2017
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    I climbed this today, and there's a loose stone wedged in a V-crack about 2/3 of the way up the route (pretty much right at the crux). It has tons of chalk on it, but it wiggles once you pull on it a bit. I had to swing around the left side of the route to make it up safely.

    Just be careful pulling on that wiggly, chalky jug. Maybe someone should remove it? It's fairly small but could cause some damage to a belayer below, particularly one without a helmet if it breaks off.

    Swinging around the left side doesn't change the grade and is still a fun way to get to the top.
    By Aaron Rosenberg
    Aug 11, 2017

    Didn't read the comments before and pulled out the chalked up rock mentioned in the previous comment. Might be 5.8+ now!

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