REI Community
search
Advanced
The Spider's Web
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bird's Nest T 
Captain Hooks T 
Dacker Cracker T,TR 
Drop, Fly, or Die T 
Esthesia T 
Eternity T 
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley T 
It's Only Entertainment T 
Key, The T 
Lycanthropia T 
Monkey See, Monkey Do T 
Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood T 
On The Loose T 
Peace In Our Climbs T 
Pumpernickel T 
Romano's Route T 
Slim Pickins T 
TR T 
Wheelin N' Dealin T 
White Knight T 
Yvonne T 
Zabba T 

It's Only Entertainment 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 6,648
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Nov 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Photo by Dave Vuono. Jeremey Dowdey run out on th...

Description 

Hands down, this is THE most photogenic, and possibly the most celebrated single-pitch crack climb in all of the Adirondacks. One can comfortably sit on top of the boulder directly in front of the route and view the extremes (i.e. big whipper potential from the crux)of climber television, first hand.

Start out below the same ramp that leads up to the airy outside corner of Esthesia. Once established at the bottom of the corner, step around the arete to the face and sink your mitts into the perfect right-to-left rising crack. Continue jamming your way up the never-ending crack to the right side of the obvious traverse--the crux. This section alone clocks in at a pumpy 10c/d and can melt your endurance quick, so it's best to practice good conservation and efficiency here.

Place a couple of pieces before the traverse, rest on some good holds, then fire the 15 foot traverse, sans gear, to keep the pump at bay. Get to the end and place a critical yellow TCU or Alien high in the vertical crack then fire the remaining 15 feet of the route.


Location 

The obvious right-to-left rising crack to the left of Esthesia.

Protection 

A standard rack with good selection of nuts, and small to mid-size gear.


Photos of It's Only Entertainment Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A shot from the best seat at the Web.
A shot from the best seat at the Web.
Rock Climbing Photo: Small feets! Photo by Alexa Siegel
Small feets! Photo by Alexa Siegel
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving up the crack. Photo by Alexa Siegel
Moving up the crack. Photo by Alexa Siegel
Rock Climbing Photo: Myself getting into the crack. Photo by Alexa Sieg...
Myself getting into the crack. Photo by Alexa Sieg...

Comments on It's Only Entertainment Add Comment
Show which comments
By CCliffe
Aug 3, 2011

super classic. super fun. i found that this route breaks up rather nicely-a few tough moves, rest and place gear, repeat.
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Jun 11, 2012

This line feels way harder than Romano's and Fear and Loathing. Don't know if i was doing it right or not but I followed it yesterday and it felt super desperate - almost 5.12a (though it was baking in the sun and I suspect that made it harder). My buddy Casey led it after flashing Fear and Loathing and struggled with it having to take twice for some long rests (he had also dispatched of Romano's and White Knight 2nd go fairly easily a couple weeks back).
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
May 14, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

There is a reasonable blue TCU (#1) about half way along the traverse.
By frank minunni
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 18, 2016

I'm with you Jim. I always thought it was 11d and I thought that was the accepted grade anyway.
By R Dubs
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 18, 2016

I'd agree with 11d. Notably harder than Romano's, though Romano's is obviously much more broken up. I'm going to come back from Cali one day for vengeance on this thing :)

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About