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John's Tower
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It's Bloody Solid 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Harper, Jurkowitsch, and Mallamo ('96)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 293
Submitted By: Skip Harper on Nov 18, 2014

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Tressa Mallamo is following the route, appropriate...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Description of "It's Bloody Solid": it's a great, moderate line, although it's also a typical Vedauwoo, harsh handjammer from start to finish. You will find no lack of 'friction', so be sure to TAPE UP! You will find yourself moving back and forth in the parallel cracks within this neat line until about 20 feet from the top when a slight dogleg left necessitates some good pro. The same goes for the alternate left exit which also needs a little extra pro.

Location 

This is on the east side of the Southeast Face. See the TOPO of The Southeast Face, Route #11n.

Protection 

A standard rack will do, although consider taking several medium to medium-large cams (3 to 4.5) and save some for the top. Belay on gear.

Descent: either use anchors on #10 (easiest) or downclimb to the north, circling east and then southerly downslope (although the walk back to the base is a little long and fraught with slash).


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