It's About Time or How I Spent My Lunch
WI4 M? X
||Trad, Mixed, Ice
|Original: ||WI4 M? X [details]|
|FA: ||1/27/04 Boris Lik_ouf|
|Season: ||Whenever it's really cold|
|Page Views: ||728|
|Submitted By: ||Eric Sutton on Jan 27, 2004|
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Even though this route is in a hidden away canyon in my back yard I put it under needles climbing because that is where I would rather be. Once again I was sucked in by the cold weather forcast but this time it actually paid off. I formed Two 3+ to 4 ice sheets with some mixed terain here and there and two pillars as of yet not quite climbable unless of course you are about 2' tall and weigh about 20 pounds. The route may be found from my sunroom windows. Step out the door, walk straight ahead for about 40 feet, turn left and head down the steep trail to the canyon floor. Once at the bottom of the canyon thank the powers that be for cloudy days and cold temperatures, and Oh yes: a very understanding wife. Skirt the base of the overhung limestone wall being carefull to avoid but admire the 6" diameter ice collumn and then the fang above not quite sturdy enough to hold your weight. Continue on to the two sheets of ice almost as beautiful as my wife and pick the one you feel luckiest about today. Climb back up to the other side of the sunroom windows gingerly so as to be able to climb them again tomorrow and oh yes so as to make your travel continue to be skyward toward that beautiful cloud cover rather than rapidly away from same view. Once at the top turn left, go about 35', turn right for 10', open the door and go have some hot chocolate. The quality of the route was as good as any I have done in the hills and though not as hard as the terminator, it was at least as thoughtful and of course: IT'S MINE ALL MINE!!!!!! My life is now complete.
The only protection is good tool placements or a top-rope anchored off my deck posts.
Deck posts or a really long rope wrapped around my house.
|Comments on It's About Time or How I Spent My Lunch
By Eric Sutton
Dec 11, 2003
I've been desperately trying to farm ice on my southwest facing canyon wall. I actually plumbed a new water line out of my house and ran it 35' along the top of my canyon wall, drilled some holes in the line in some choice spots and let my water run day and night when it's cold. I so far have only spent $10 on the endeaver and used some extra stuff laying around from building the house. The damn thing has kept me sucked in for about a month now. It teases me with quickly forming collumns that don't quite touch the ground and verglas sheets that quickly resemble snow-like consistency as soon as I am back home from work. One day as I watched that evil hellfire ball in the sky intentionally aim itself at my masterpiece and begin to do to it what we all know it did to Frosty the snowman, I did what any desperate climber would do. I dropped everything, dressed up in my one piece suit that i've been wearing mostly to watch t.v. on the couch in, took my ice axes, crampons, and koflachs out of their boxes, put them all on and headed for the door. Being a guy who plans ahead (reguardless of what my wife thinks), I grabbed my cell phone and tucked it neatly in my chest pocket just in case. I stumbled awkwardly down the trail to the base of the ice flows(there are 5 of them)and tiptoed my way by the fragile collumns to the precarious verglass cursing at the sun all the while. I made it half way up, the thought crossing my mind that I might not even have service down in the canyon, when better judgement and remembering that I am a dad and a husband made me pause and begin to downclimb. The phone rang, well that answered that question but it didn't answer the one about why the sun hates me so much; I decided not to answer it. That was the first time I decided to give up on my iceflows. Since then, bizarre ideas of stringing tarps to block the sun and other stupid ideas I'm embarrassed to admit, have crossed my desperate mind. I think I'll give up again tomorrow.
By dante kleinman
From: Denali National Park, AK
Mar 3, 2012
Wow this is the EPIC form of beard stroking that one would only expect to find on SUPERTOPO! Way to go.