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It's a Kind of Magic S 

It's a Kind of Magic 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Original route: F Haden, M Crocker (1994), Modern route: M Crocker, D Jenkin, 2008
Season: year round
Page Views: 20
Submitted By: Nick Russell on Nov 15, 2013

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A steady start up to the main bulge gets the blood flowing for a technical and powerful sequence through the steep ground. The holds all seem to face the wrong way, and the crux move is a long reach off and undercling to a jug. From here, bolt 4 could be clipped high, but it's better to make another move to more good holds on the right before clipping. Easier climbing, but still with interest, leads to the top.

A reliable winter route, drying quickly and not taking too much seepage, even staying dry (in the lower section) after light rain!


After the cave, before the leftwards-trending crack of "Fossil", this is the line of bolts taking the bulge directly.


6 bolts, 2-bolt anchor.

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