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It's a dog's life, but you can picnic with us 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Terry Lien, Jon Nelson 1983
Page Views: 1,083
Submitted By: Stealthy on Jan 17, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking down "it's a dog's life" from th...

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Description 

The leftmost of the 3 pitches above P1 of Japanese Gardens. Traverse left to the shallow right facing corner. With difficulty work up on tips in the crack, arête pinches, and knobs. About halfway up, the crack on the right gives some options and a nice moves finishes to a mantle onto the ledge.

Location 

Above pitch 1 of "Japanese Gardens". The leftmost of the 3 cracks. Finishes on the ledge with chain anchors above pitch 2 of "Japanese Gardens" rappel to the P1 anchor of JG. 70m single rope reaches the ground from P1 of JG.

Protection 

LA's on FA. All pins are now gone. Easily top-roped from chains atop P2 of "Japanese Gardens"
UPDATE 2 new pins have been added as of 4/10/14
UPDATE 11/19/14 new pins have since fallen out or been removed.


Comments on It's a dog's life, but you can picnic with us Add Comment
Show which comments
By Shaun Johnson
Mar 23, 2014

I climbed on this thing today. Really fun!
By blakeherrington
May 3, 2014

There are a few unquestionably good pieces possible through the middle section, but the first few moves off the ledge (crux) are pretty "R". (no pins remain). The final moves to the anchor are also quite runout, but a good belayer would likely keep you ok if you blew them.
By Stealthy
May 4, 2014

thanks for adding the hardware Blake. i wonder how many years have passed since the last time this cool pitch was led?
By Mikey Schaefer
From: Terrebonne, OR
Jul 4, 2014

I lead this thing a few years back without any pins in place. Don't remember needing any fixed gear. Fun Pitch. I also worked on the the A2 pitch to the right. I know I tr'd it but can't remember if ever bothered to lead it. Then there is also Trout Farm Massacre to the right of the original p2 of JG. Remeber it being a bit licheny but not that big of a deal.
By Stealthy
Jul 4, 2014

nice Mikey! i could see how it could have been led without the pins, but probably a touch spicy for most potential suitors..? I too have TR's the "if god wrote you a letter" A2 thing in the middle...my favorites of those 4 lines off the ledge is currently a toss up between "dogs life" and "trout farm". I have put maybe 5-6 laps recently on "trout farm massacre" so its a bit cleaner now. NIce steep jams, high steps, and even a pocket pull! come back to the home cliff sometime buddy!!!

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