|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800', Grade IV|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Andy Donson and Dave Light 1997|
|Submitted By:||justin dubois on Jan 1, 2005|
|Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Ithaca||Add Comment|
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By Rob Kepley
Aug 23, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Probably the best route I've done in the Glacier Gorge area. I gave it only 3 stars because I feel it needs to clean up quite a bit. The 5th pitch is really dirty. I had to do quite a bit of gardening just to place pro on this pitch. Also, I linked pitches 4&5 together with no problem. I would also like to clarify the lengths of pitches 4&5 as described above. I did both as one pitch and arrived at the belay with exactly half of a 70 meter rope left. That would be about a 115 ft, give or take some, pitch. The information above would you have believe it would be a 225 ft lead which is not the case. Sorry Justin...
Also, the 1st and 2nd pitch would probably go as one with a little silmu-climbing. I would do it this way next time for sure.
As far as the gear beta described above, spot on.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Aug 24, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
I agree with Rob, this would be a 4 star route if it was a little cleaner, but it's still well worth doing. A note about the crux pitch: the fixed nut is not there and I didn't really see a spot where you could place one, but it's hard to see the crack when you're climbing it.
Also I wouldn't rate this pitch any harder than 11c, if you compare it to the crux on "All to Obvious" on Spearhead I thought it was definitely easier. It's heady though since I was only able to get good pro at the start of the traverse and didn't see any other spots for reliable placements until I was through the crux. A fall on this pitch would most likely result in a hard swing back into a left-facing corner.
By Alex Shainman
Sep 4, 2011
Did Ithaca yesterday. Kudos to the FA team! Although the pitches easily link into one another to the summit, the FA must of been real and exciting! It's a stellar line of continuity but suffers from some scaly rock & lichen exfoliation and/or dirt and moss growth in the critical sections of cracks on 80% of the route. In a perfect alpine world and if totally cleaned, Ithaca would rival the best lines anywhere...As it stands, it's still worth doing at least once!
I agree with the above comments...if someone were to rap the route and do some heavy-handed scrubbing and major picking out in the thin cracks of almost every pitch and even some trundling on the last pitch, the character of the route would dramatically change (but who would do something like that?!). The 3rd pitch had a fair amount of dirt/moss either blocking the gear/holds or holding/dripping moisture. Even though, we did not feel it warranted (12a). Perhaps the FA encountered an even dirtier crack/seam!
We both felt that .11c would be the accurate grade IF the entire route were much cleaner. Nonetheless, Ithaca is a proud line and not to be taken lightly. Every pitch has spice to it. I think, if way cleaner, pitches 2-6 would all feel noticably easier. As for serious ratings in it's current condition...P1 is X and the remainder are somewhere in between PG-13 & R.
Have fun in the alpine!! Don't forget to lead with your nut tool!!
P.S. One 70m rope does work well for the "low-point" raps starting under the big visor block, which is marked by a large cairn. Be advised you will have to downclimb maybe 5.5ish terrain after rap #2.