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Itchy Scratchy 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 410'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Carl Dec, Thomas Martin, Billy Smallen, Jeff Rhoads, Sean T M
New Route: Yes
Season: Faces NNW, Shady mornings all summer
Page Views: 2,343
Submitted By: cdec on Jul 10, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking down pitch 5

Description 

Itchy Scratchy follows good rock for 5 pitches, can be climbed with 8 draws, a light rack, rapped with a single 60m rope and is shady mornings all year! I saw the 5th pitch crack from Starstruck and thought it might be good. Turns out it is!
Pitches 1 and 4 are very good.
Pitches 2 & 3 are mostly easy, with short bits of steeper climbing, similar to the end of the 1st pitch of Steort's Ridge.
Pitch 5 makes the route!
Pitches 1-4 can be climbed at 5.7 R bolts only. Gear and small trees can be used to make the route well protected for beginners. See pitch descriptions.

Route starts below pin and bolts on small, right trending crack.
Bolts on first pitch are shiny. After that they match the rock really well.

P1 5.7 90’ - 1 pin, 6 bolts
Can place a purple c3 at the start before piton.
Belay on good ledge from 2 bolt anchor.

P2 5.6 100’ - 4 bolts/gear
Start in small cracks left of anchor, trend up and left of 2 small stumps.
There are small cracks between bolts 1 and 2 for a piece but the climbing is very easy.
Starts slabby, gets steeper.
Belay at good ledge from 2 bolt anchor.

P3 5.5 75’ - 3 bolts/gear
Cam just above belay on slab.
Starts slabby, gets steeper.
Belay from bolted anchor on ledge left of tree.

P4 5.7 65’ - 4 bolts
No gear but still well protected.
Belay at 2 bolt anchor or skip and combine pitches 4 & 5.

P5 5.7 85’ 2 bolts & gear (purple c3 to #1)
Use horizontals and bolts low, then follow ever narrowing crack up and RIGHT, on smaller gear and bigger holds, to top of pillar and 2 bolt anchor.

Location 

Approach: The same as for strong crag. Then about 25’ before you reach Starstruck head up hill between wall on your left and big pine on your right.
Follow trail up and then trend right over one log, then under another. Then straight up hill. This part is maybe 100’ total.
There is Poison Ivy near, not at, the base so rack up 15’ right of route by large stump, NOT below the climb. The PI can be avoided but you must know what it looks like.
10-20 minutes.

Descent: route can be rapped with a single 60m.
Again there is PI around the base. To avoid pulling ropes into it clip the ends to the 1st person to rap. Once all are down move left and flip the pull side over a small horn on the cliff above. This will bring the rope safely down to the left of the route which is PI free.

Protection 

8 draws, a couple should be alpine.
BD purple C3 to #1. BD stoppers to #7 or 8.


Photos of Itchy Scratchy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Itchy Scratchy - Yellow
 Road to recovery - Red
Itchy Scratchy - Yellow Road to recovery - Red
Rock Climbing Photo: Great View over the Canyon
Great View over the Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: The Creator
The Creator
Rock Climbing Photo: Cut tree! Not by me. Go just left of the stumps.
Cut tree! Not by me. Go just left of the stumps.

Comments on Itchy Scratchy Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 30, 2017
By Cassidy Thomas
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 24, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

First off, thanks to the first ascent party for this valued addition. This is a good route to take someone who's just starting to get into multi-pitch climbing. I thought the first and last pitches were descent 5.7 climbing. Everything in between was 5.5, maybe a couple 5.6 spots in my opinion. The description of the location was good and made it easy to find. The logs that you pass over and under weren't as large as I was originally looking for so keep that in mind when you're trying to find the route. I don't think I'll go back unless i'm exposing someone to some easy multi pitch just to help them get the hang of things but it's definitely a good route for that purpose and worth doing once. Take a set of nuts or small cams for the last pitch. Be aware on the descent, even with a 70 meter rope, you cannot get from the top anchors to the tree that has a sling and links, you end up about 8 feet above the tree.
By Paul Wilhelmsen
From: sandy, ut
Aug 10, 2016

Thanks for the comment about not being able to make it from the anchors of p5 to the anchors of P3. You saved me from trying, then having to prussic back up half the rope.

Great route! The route setters must have fought a heinous battle with all that poison ivy!!
By Jeremy Polk
From: Sandy, UT
Sep 12, 2016
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Worth doing once. We used a 70m rope and did it in two long pitches with very minimal rope drag. We linked pitches 1 and 2 together for our first pitch and then 3,4 and 5 for our second pitch. We just barely had enough rope to make it to the top of the last pitch. Due to the length of the pitches and the redeeming final pitch crack, this was actually a pretty fun route. As others have mentioned, a 70m rope does not reach the slung tree from the p5 anchor... but it gets you pretty close. We were able to down climb about 6 ft to the tree. Super light rack for the last pitch. If you don't have trad gear and you are looking for an easy multi pitch bolted route and you don't want to drive to Rock Canyon, this thing is all bolts to the top of the fourth pitch. Also of note, this would be another way to start Standard Ridge.
By John Steiger
Sep 27, 2016

Good addition to the plethora of long easier routes in the Storm Mountain area. Got a little lost above the second pitch (I didn't take the description), but just kept cruising until I got back on line. And nice hardware! Seems to be all stainless, and are some of those half-inchers? Great fall afternoon route--bakes in the sun, with outstanding views.
By cdec
From: SLC, UT
Sep 28, 2016

John,
Funny thing about those 1/2 inchers. Bought some bolts and the company packed out 12mm instead of 3/8. They wouldn't fit in the 3/8 holes. We thought they were 1/2 inch so we re-drilled the holes and the 12mm bolts dropped right in. Like throwing a banana down a hallway.
After much head scratching we figured out that the bolts were 12mm and the holes 1/2 inch. So down we went and bought 1/2 bolts to fill the holes.

The bolts are hard to see and there aren't many on 2 and 3. The climbing is easy but the description is a good idea. Glad you liked it!
By James Garrett
Oct 7, 2016

Super fun, I am sure their are more than a few out there scratching their heads wondering why they didn't get to this first:). Loved it and look forward to next time!
By zoso
Oct 12, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Great stuff. Looking forward to taking my kids up there.

Thanks for all the work on the route. It was clear there was a fair amount of cleaning done. Very well engineered and the PI was a non-issue...unless you drop your helmet and it rolls down into it. he he
By Thumer
From: SLC, UT
Oct 14, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The last pitch was good. It would be a good first multipitch.
By Gregory Palis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
May 6, 2017

A bit of extra beta
Approach: As described above but follow the switchbacks all the way up till you hit the wall, route starts about 20 ft right of the huge vegetated right facing corner/ramp.

Pitch 2: The two "small trees" mentioned have been cut down, look for the bolt line out left of the right slanting feature and not the two remaining trees straight above.
By Mulch
From: SLC, Utah
May 9, 2017

Poison ivy at the base of the route appears to be dead. It's still very much alive. Watch out for it. The poison ivy is all the little twigs sticking up out of the ground just to the left of the start of the route. Praying my rope didn't land in it.
By cdec
From: SLC, UT
May 30, 2017

I was up there on 5/28 and the base is free of PI. The twigs to the climbers left of the route are scrub oak not Poison Ivy.

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