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Italy Rock Climbing 

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Location: 43.4848, 11.9971 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 170,518
Administrators: Tim Wolfe, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: e Dixon on May 25, 2007  with updates from Tenaya Hurst
You & This Area
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My first trip with unsupervised anchor threading. ...


In Italy, there are all types of climbing to be found. The country is full of possible destinations. An abundance of everything from sport climbing to long, alpine routes. In addition to a variety of climbing styles, are the various types of stone. Much of the climbing is on different types of limestone, however, beautiful granite can be found as well. Check it out, you won't be disappointed!

Getting There 

There are a variety of major cities that can be flown into. Just pick the one closest to your selected climbing destination. At times is is better to fly into a nearby country (Austria, Germany) for quicker access to your destination. It also makes sense to check with your car insurance and credit card company regarding coverage of rental cars. Some will not cover cars rented in Italy, but will cover cars rented in other countries and driven in Italy.

Climbing Season

Weather station 7.9 miles from here

513 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',64],['3 Stars',192],['2 Stars',158],['1 Star',46],['Bomb',2]

Classic Climbing Routes in Italy

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Italy:
Ferrata Brigata Tridentina   4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b     TR, Alpine, 1600'   Passo Gardena area (Grodner... : Via Ferrata
Dreams   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Rocca di Corno : Settore Est
South-west Arete (Delagokante)   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400'   Vajolet Towers : Torre Delago
South Pillar, a.k.a. “Mariakante”   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 9 pitches, 820'   Passo Pordoi Area : Piz Pordoi
"Spigolo Jori," SE Arete   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 15 pitches, 1350'   Pomagagnon and Cristallo Gr... : Punta Fiames
South Face Buttress 1, a.k.a. “South Arete”   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 14 pitches, 1100'   Tofana Group : Tofana di Rozes
North West Arete - Kasnapoff   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 820'   Passo Sella Area : Second Sella Tower
South Face (Via Miriam)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 530'   Cinque Torri Group : Torre Grand South Summit
Vinatzer   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 13 pitches, 985'   Passo Sella Area : Third Sella Tower
Cima Piccola – South Arete Yellow edge   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 1100'   Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Drei ... : Cima Piccola
Messner   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 820'   Passo Sella Area : Second Sella Tower
Schubert (Friendhip Route)   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 7 pitches, 820'   Passo Sella Area : Piz Ciavazes
La Torre   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   Monte Cucco : Settore della Torre
L'Arco dei Guaitechi   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 195'   Monte Sordo : Settore Centrale
East Face "Via Finlandia"   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 6 pitches, 450'   Cinque Torri Group : Torre Grande, North Summit
Luna Nascente   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 8 pitches, 1100'   Val di Mello : Scoglio delle Metamorfosi
North Face - Comici   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 1475'   Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Drei ... : Cime Grande
South Face, Buttress 2, Pilastro Route (Constantini/Apollonio)   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 19 pitches, 1500'   Tofana Group : Tofana di Rozes
Cima Ovest-North Face - Cassin   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, Alpine, 1500'   Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Drei ... : Cima Ovest
Roberta83   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 9 pitches, 800'   Passo Sella Area : Piz Ciavazes
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Italy

Featured Route For Italy
Rock Climbing Photo: Sole Incantatore

Sole Incantatore "Sun Charmer" 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13  Europe : Italy : Cala Goloritze
A stunning route to the summit of the spire. Mostly less than vertical, with a few bulges the route is sustained and tricky to onsite. A good mix of crimps, tricky footwork and even a bit of lay backing, steep limestone slab baby! Pitches go at 5+, 6b+, 6c, 6b, 6c. First two pitches can be linked. Some of the crux moves can be aided but don't rely on it. Pitches 2, 3, and 4 had many different bolts and picking the right line to follow can be tricky....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Italy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing toprope in the vicinity of Cala Gorone, S...
Climbing toprope in the vicinity of Cala Gorone, S...
Rock Climbing Photo: Louisa Iovane on Doping (8a), Val di Nicolo.  Phot...
Louisa Iovane on Doping (8a), Val di Nicolo. Phot...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ahh...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing above the vineyards in Finale, photo: Bob...
Climbing above the vineyards in Finale, photo: Bob...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing in Finale Liguere, photo: Bob Horan Colle...
Climbing in Finale Liguere, photo: Bob Horan Colle...

Comments on Italy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Forestvonsinkafinger
From: Iowa
Oct 22, 2009
As many world class routes there are in this country, I am surprised at the lack of action on for Italy. I suggest we all take a group outing there.
By Matt Marino
From: Georgetown, MA
May 12, 2010
Does anyone have any information on Riva Ridge in Lizzano Italy? It was the sight of the 10th Mountain Division's first combat in WWII and being a former 10th Mountain Soldier I'm trying to make a pilgrimage.
By SYBold
Nov 1, 2012
For extensive topos on the various crags of Italy (and other regions)see the Italian version of MountainProject:
By Tenaya Hurst
From: San Jose, CA
May 17, 2017
Hello! I'm the first post in awhile. Folks, I moved to Italy to be a full time rock climber and I cannot meet ANYONE. I am a climber of 30 years, in Italy no one will give me the time of day and I guess they assume I am a rookie. If you are reading this and it is still 2017, I am available to climb in Italy. I live in Como on Lake Como.

Information for others looking in the area. Gyms are crap, you have to bring your own partner, all your gear, they don't TR here. Most Italians do not use the internet, so Yelp, Meetup, Craigslist, etc. are all no-gos to find partners. Trail heads and routes and where to go climb, it is all uncertain and you never know if you are parked a million kilometers away or what gear you will need, etc. You need to find experts. I have not found any yet - at all - let alone a few that will take me under their Italian wing.

Como is a great base to live in because you're close to Switzerland, many caves, and many routes in Northern Italy. It's just finding the people to climb with - always the struggle.

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