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It Crack 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,386
Submitted By: bw1 on Mar 22, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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Half way through It Crack


Attention all crack climbers...this one is a Lemmon gem. A high quality crack that eats up gear and has got to be one of the few cracks of its kind on the mountain.


1 set of stoppers, camalots to #2.

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By bw1
Apr 5, 2005

forgot to mention that as of march 05 there were 2 sets of 2 bolts atop the route.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Apr 23, 2007
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Even if you're TRing it, you probably want to take a #2 Camalot to keep yourself on the route and rest a bit if you fall..

It's overhanging enough that it could be a serious pain in the ass trying to get back on...
By Chris Prewitt
Jan 28, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

While it is true that this is "one of the few cracks of it's kind" on ML, I would not go as far as to call it a "gem" or "high quality". Nice things about it are that it's five minutes from the car and takes gear well, so you can use it as a stepping stone to longer, harder lines. Oh, and compared to other cracks of this kind 11- is strecthing it.
By eMurdock
From: Tucson, Arizona
Oct 6, 2008

I climbed this last week after not doing it for almost a decade. The 'new' anchors are equipped with rap links but are way too far back to be of any use for rapping (they are fine for setting up an anchor and walking off). I am going to move them closer to the edge on the upper block so that the route can be set up after a lead or TR with a couple draws. I will make sure it does not preclude the topout moves. It will just save rope wear and a little bit of time. This is a good place to run into for a quick 1.5 hour, 4 pitch, lunch breack, session. It is also a good place to self belay. Any objections??

Also, this route is really, really good if you want to get some jamming in. Don't care much about the grade these days, but it is a gem; high quality, solid rock, good jamming, steep, and shady. It is a bit easier than some of the other 11 cracks on the mountain.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jan 19, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

You can practice everything from tips to handstacks in like 35 feet of climbing. Also foot jamming, getting past wide sections to the next good jam, not placing gear where your next good jam is gonna be, not stopping to place gear when it's better to run it to the next good jam, etc, etc, etc..Would give it 4 stars (ie for Tucson) were it not for a couple of sections where it's too easy to shy away from the crack climbing.

Tape could help but not really necessary, nothing too sharp.

Not a bad place to go to refresh your skills before a Forks trip.

PS I don't think the moving of anchors mentioned above ever happened.

PSS Some hissing noises coming from underneath the summit block, I think the little critter has enough space to crawl towards the back but I wouldn't stick my whole arm in there :-)
By Jackson.
From: Flagstaff AZ
May 21, 2014

This climb certainly feels like solid 5.11 when its 100 degrees in Tucson!
There is a new set of anchors midway way where I believe there used to be a single bolt. Maybe these anchors make top-roping the route easier but they precede the fun top out moves. I recommend plugging a bomber cam one foot below the new anchors and gunning it to the shuts atop the cliff.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
May 22, 2014

Does anyone know who added these anchors and why? I am sure the person had good intentions, but to me they mar a very good climb. There is excellent gear where the bolts are but you have to be able to hang on and place it (maybe plugging a good jam), and that may even be the climb's crux (unless you've got it all wired). The bolts are a distracting temptation, and I can't see what the benefit is, as they are well below the top of the climb. They do not make it easier to set up a toprope, or to lead the route clean and conveniently lower, since you wouldn't be close to completing the whole climb.

I'm not looking for a witch-hunt; if the person who placed these would like to address why, it would be great to hear from him/her, and have a civil discussion about it.
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 27, 2016
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Just wondering if the reason for these allegedly odd anchors might be these bolts are in good rock at the obvious top of the crack climb. While the original anchors are set 4 feet back on top of the cap rock above the crack. I'm no expert but it seems to me these anchors are exactly where they should be to facilitate a fun crack climb as opposed to beating the crap out of your rope to awkwardly top out on a non-summit?. I admit they avoid some weird moves above the crack and further that, by saying this, I reveal myself to be a pansy, weak sauce, and extra light duty. I suppose someday I'll understand the original anchors and on that day, the heavens shall part and I will be a real Tucson climber.

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