REI Community
Island

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
7UP 
Ape Traverse TR 
Arete, The TR 
Double O TR 
Dunes TR 
Island Access S 
Orgator, The 
Phantom Fifth TR 
Sandbox Arete 
Sandbox Direct 
Sandbox Skyline Traverse 
Sandy Ledges TR 
Scarpa TR 

Island Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 1,000'
Page Views: 6,498
Administrators: Courtney Curtner, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: John- on Jul 11, 2007
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Description 

Sharon Conglomerate Sandstone..

There are a couple ways to get to the top of the island to set up top ropes. The easiest is soloing Island Access, 5.3. The crux is at the top and is a bit scary. There is a old bolt towards the top that protects the top moves; the quality of the bolt is unknown. It can be wet for several days/weeks after a rain.
A dryer but harder alternative is soloing the start of Double O and then traversing right at the top, avoiding the overhang. The crux is pulling the first bulge (5.9+); once you stand up over the bulge, it is much easier. Not done nearly as ofter as Island Access.

Routes are listed in order (from left to right) starting with The Arete and going around the island to Island Access.

The Downside of the Island or The Sandbox Area has many quality boulder problems. Only a few were listed here.

There is a tree that sets back about 3’ at the top of The Arete with a chain around it. Use this to rappel off the Island.

Getting There 

Locate The Crack (see Main Wall). Face The Crack. Turn 180 degrees and look straight ahead. The large rock about 50’ in front of you is the Island.

Climbing Season



Weather station 20.5 miles from here

13 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Island

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Island:
Sandbox Arete   V0 4     Boulder, 15'   
Double O   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
The Arete   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Dunes   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Island

Featured Route For Island
Rock Climbing Photo: JS on Dunes

Dunes 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  Ohio : Whipps Ledges : Island
A Hinckley Classic. Start on slab, move slightly right to a face, then slightly back left to an overhanging face. A horizontal leg jam gives you a rest before the difficult finishing moves....[more]   Browse More Classics in Ohio

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