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Island Express? 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 186
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Apr 12, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: P1 anchors as seen from Java Dome.


Yawn. This route was neither inspiring nor challanging, and if it had been it would be scary. The Trout guide gives a good topo. If you own the other guide, leave it in the car, it will only confuse you with regards to this route. Hike the south gully and find the jumble of boulders between Java Dome (left) and Bali Dome (right). Bushwhack perhaps 20 yards up between them, and find the first bolt on the right. That's the pro for pitch 1, 150'. Pitch 2 has three bolts and ends at another two bolt anchor, 150'.


3 draws or slings.

Photos of Island Express? Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Headed for the runout....
Headed for the runout....
Rock Climbing Photo: 2nd pitch runout....
2nd pitch runout....
Rock Climbing Photo: One bolt to the first belay. Gotta love South Plat...
One bolt to the first belay. Gotta love South Plat...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rik starting Island Express.
Rik starting Island Express.
Rock Climbing Photo: I'm pretty sure this is Island Express.
I'm pretty sure this is Island Express.

Comments on Island Express? Add Comment
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By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Mar 5, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

It was not a challenge for me either, but that doesn't make it a bomb! It was a great slab climbing intro for my follower. Good rock and a great line, what more do you expect out of a 5.7 slab? Should it be hard for a 5.11 climber?

P1 is 60 feet not 150. Also it should have been listed as an R rated climb since you have 3 bolts for over 200 feet of climbing.
By James Young
Aug 30, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I posted a couple of pics of this route below that I'm pretty sure is Island Express. The Hubbel guide confroozed the hell out of me. Regardless, if you head for the general area, you'll find this "runout" express. One bolt to the first belay, three bolts and one hella runout to the second. Real easy slabby route, the runout section makes it worthwhile. I freakin' love South Platte runouts, so I'll give it a star just for that.
By jleining
From: CO
Jun 20, 2017

I don't believe this route is Island Express (IE). Both the 1988 and the 1998 Hubbel guidebooks list Island Express at 5.9, although they are in different locations on the respective topos. I believe the 1988 is the correct topo showing IE on the far left. The route listed here, and the photos shows the line in the 1998 topo which is nowhere near the 5.9 rating given in the guides.

Either way, I climbed the route on the far left, just right of a corner created by a boulder leaning against the rock, and this meets the description of IE and matches the 1988 Hubbel topo. This route has a stout start up to one bolt about 20 feet off the ground, and the climbing gets easier as you continue with no more bolts until the mid pitch anchor. It is definitely harder than 5.7 up to and just after the bolt. Then the grade becomes easier.

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