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Changing of the Guard S 
Idiot Wind T 
Isis T 
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YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 116'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Johnny Woodward?
Season: spring/ fall- late afternoon shade
Page Views: 1,068
Submitted By: bheller on Apr 7, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: The nice thing hands corner to the obvious roof. A...


The first half is a great 5.9 warm up- then undercling out the awesome roof, clip the bolt, and then good luck pulling the foothold free transition from the underclings on flared big fingers into the flared chimney. Amazing it goes free, because it seems to just barely go. A worthy send. Would be 4 stars if not for the horrible silt that cakes the wall under the roof and in the upper crack.


Obvious left facing corner with huge leftward undercling roof to a single bolt protecting the lip- finishing in a flare/corner. A 70 meter just barely gets you down.


.75 camalots for the start(4), with 1 camalots(2)in the occasional pod for the first half- .5 camalots (4) out the undercling lieback roof, and orange metolius (4) above the roof. One finger sized piece for the finale(1 yellow metolius). The bolt is essential to keep the rope from jamming in the crack as you climb past the roof.

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By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
May 22, 2017

Someone has added a beefy chain anchor 90ish feet up so just the "warm up" section of the route can be climbed. Seemed 10ish to me - lots of green and red camalots and an occasional gold can be squished in.

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