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Is That Uranus 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Rusty Lewis and Ted Stymiest, 1998
Page Views: 125
Submitted By: Mark Orsag on May 16, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

This route climbs a slabby, fine-grained, in-leaning, bullet-shaped pillar. Quite a bit of chimneying at the start giving way to pure friction climbing (palm pillar, smear, step and repeat in a steady unbroken sequence) that wanders around the pillar-- angle is pretty low, but the bolting is quite sparse. Weird, runout, a tiny bit spooky, and not wholly pleasant (particularly with some rain during our climb) but memorable and different all the same.

Location 

This rather forgotten route starts more or less at the same spot that Rum and Coke (5.10+) does. Anchors at the top of Is That Uranus weren't in good shape (this was a few years back), so we ended up traversing over and rapping off the Pluto's Playground (5.9+)anchors. Took two double-rope rappels, with the second rap from the Make Believe (5.8+) anchors, to get down that way if I am remembering correctly???

Protection 

3 bolts with the first quite high off the ground. You'll probably end up doing some chimneying off to the right , if memory serves, side of the pillar against an adjacent formation to get to the first bolt.


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By Derek Beaumont
Jun 26, 2016

Started by both climbers approaching/stemming up the left side in my flip flops. Stopped at a little belay ledge where I roped up. Did a little travers on a ledge around the corner where I found the first bolt within reach but was a little scary traversing around on the little ledge. Had a fair amount of rip drag as well as bolts being placed where you definitely need some cord or slings to tr. rapped off the bolts which were a little rusty but fine. Then down climbed/stemmed back to the ground. Climbing wasn't really special and was a little dangerous at the start. Only thing I really liked about the climb is the view at the top is pretty great. I wouldn't suggest this climb to anyone with limited time in the area but not the worst thing I've ever climbed. Not a great lead for inexperienced climbers just because of location of first bolt.

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