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Unsorted Routes:

"Is Our Children Learning?" 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Thor Kieser
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,949
Submitted By: T. Kieser on Jun 30, 2007

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This is the furthest right route at Little Eiger presently. It is just right of Tsunami of Charisma.


~14 bolts.


2 ropes.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 1, 2017
By T. Kieser
Jun 30, 2007

Furthest right route on The Eiger. This route is just OK and might improve as it cleans up from traffic. It is a full 35 meters. Once again gear was stolen off the route during cleaning. I can't believe that climbers would steal from the guy who is spending all the money to give them access to new routes! Whoever you are you SUCK!
By kevin fox
From: parker
Aug 12, 2007

Hey T,
What was stolen? I really enjoy your routes...maybe we can get a collection together to replace the shit that was stolen.
By Deathkills
From: North Denver CO
Aug 24, 2007

I would support Kevin's suggestion...I just went there for the first time last week and had a the long routes....
Thanks for doing all the hard work.
By Ralph Kolva
From: Evergreen, CO
Sep 13, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Be careful of some loose rock on the upper half of this climb. Climbing in CC got me out of the habit of checking holds before weighting them and took an unexpected little fall on this one, approx 10 pound block came loose. Fortunately my belayer heard me yell rock and got out of the way in time, otherwise it would have been much worse.
By JimmyK
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 7, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

One 60meter rope will not get you down. You need two ropes.
By DavidHH
From: Parker, Colorado
Aug 29, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The opening jug moved when I cranked off it. If this rips off it will likely hit your belayer, just take note. Pretty good route that will be even better once it cleans up more.
By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 23, 2009

I think this route should have a belayer bolt. If the leader falls before clipping the 1st bolt, it is likely you both are taking a ride down to US-6.
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 29, 2009

Stick clip.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 29, 2009

Mono beat me to it.
By Drew Allan
From: Denver/Aspen
Dec 31, 2009

Ah, jeez guys, what about all the parties who show up at sport crags without stick clips? I think Randy is suggesting a solution to keep a few blokes from tumbling onto US 6. Seems pretty minimal to me.
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 31, 2009

Bolt the planet for all I care, just offering another option.

And since you mentioned it, going sport climbing without a stick clip is like starting up the Nose without aiders. You can do it, but why would you?
By Thor.K
Apr 1, 2010

What do you guys think about continuing to the right with more new routes starting off the ledge and using belayer bolts? I am worried about rockfall onto the road, and it's the only thing that stops me. I still see some decent looking lines on solid looking rock...Thor
By Kevin Wood
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great route, Kieser. You did a great job bolting it, every bolt was well placed (not too many like that 5.8 at the Canal Zone)! To me, this route was pure fun and nowhere near 10a, IMHO. I felt the first bolt was very easy to reach, no need for a stick clip, but I guess if your worried about it bring harm in that.
By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Jun 9, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A 70m will just barely get you to the ground.

There is definitely some shrubbery and gardening involved in climbing this thing, but it was a fun and LONG route.
By Craig Watrous
From: Denver, CO
Aug 6, 2010

This is a nice 5.9. The loose BOULDER that Kevin mentioned on 4/19/2010 is still there and something you should be aware of. Also, some of the ledges in the upper 2/3's of the climb have loose rock and debris on them. Belayer may want a helmet. I would also recommend a 70m rope and plenty of gear, this is a fun long climb.
By Doug Redosh
From: Golden, CO
Jun 10, 2011

Agree about potential of both climber and belayer tumbling onto the highway. One can place cams (0.5 -0.75) in the horizontal crack before the first bolt, and tie a 15' piece of rope (or the end of your 2nd rope) to them for the belayer, and first piece for the leader if desired, then back clean to avoid rope drag. Ditto re: some loose rock that will go down to the highway.
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jul 9, 2011

If you don't want to drag another rope up, you can tie one to the end of the first one and have the leader haul it up.

But really guys, putting anchors over 30 meters (in this case over 35 meters) is NOT worth the potential for someone getting lowered off the end of the rope and killed. You'll feel different when it happens eventually, and it will. It happened at Cat Slab.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jul 9, 2011

Stich: Are you suggesting that developers are responsible for climbers' safety?

Or that just in this particular case an extra 5 meters of 5.9 wasn't worth the increased risk?
By Bal Rau
From: Denver, Colorado
Jun 16, 2012

Stich, 70 meter ropes are pretty standard nowadays. Using your logic, nothing over 80 feet would be bolted, because that's the most you can handle with a 50 meter rope.
By Crag Dweller
From: New York, NY
Nov 17, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A really fun route, a little dirty in places but otherwise a lot of fun. I thought the bolt placement higher up added just the right amount of spice.
By Anfarwal Vr
From: Denver, CO
Sep 17, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The ground in front of this climb is now more sloped and narrow since some of the path fell away after all of the rain. We plugged in a few cams at the base as anchors (BD 0.4 or a #3 works); I would strongly suggest anchoring in with gear before belaying on this climb. I can totally see someone taking a step backward to look for their climber and then slipping down the slope. Maybe someday someone will put a bolt at the base.
By ErikaNW
From: Golden, CO
Oct 9, 2013

Really enjoyed this climb! Has a little bit of an adventurous feel to it and lots of variety. There is some loose rock after the rains - my leader pulled off a softball-sized handhold somewhere around the 4th (?) bolt - glad to be wearing a helmet. We discussed placing gear for the belay, but that first bolt is pretty easy to get to if you are comfortable at the grade.
Jul 25, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

As for the belay bolt: there's a hidden piton in the rocks at ground level to the right of the start of this route.
By mmk
From: Golden, CO
Mar 30, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

My 70m came up short by about 5 feet when lowering. Creative teamwork made it work, but please make sure to knot the end of your rope to avoid dropping your climber!
By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
Oct 9, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

If short sections of meandering 9+ slab broken up by multiple dirty ledges is your thing, jump on this thing ASAP!
By T G
From: Colorado
Mar 19, 2017
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Dirty, meandering, and somewhat fussy. If your leader doesn't weigh much, they may hardly reach the ground with a 70m rope. Highly recommend cleaning this while being lowered out or following on TR and not on rappel. Also highly recommend skipping this route for any number of better routes.
By selliott825
Apr 18, 2017

Def not worth the time we spent on it. Wandering and unintuitive; loose rocks on the ledges as well.
By Jay Beans
Jun 10, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

After reading the comments, we almost didn't climb this route. It is now one of my favorites in the canyon. The route definitely has an adventurous feel to it, with nice slabs and bolts only where they need to be, but yeah, plug some gear in for the belay, and tie a damn knot in the end of your rope. Totally worth it!
By Doug Redosh
From: Golden, CO
Jul 1, 2017

Care should still be exercised re: the belay ledge. Stick clip, place gear, or be careful. At the top at the last bolt, it seems easier to go right, but there is a loose block in the corner.

Our 70m rope was just long enough.

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