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The Iron Wall
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Bong Route, The T 
Cast Iron T 
Detritus Spite Us T 
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Honey Cwm T 
Iron Potato T 
Iron Sharpens Iron T 
Low Pressure Zone T 
New Potato Caboose T 
Pig Iron T 
Surprise T 

Iron Sharpens Iron 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: J. Unema
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 862
Submitted By: Joel Unema on Jun 28, 2013

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Joel Unema on the FA of Iron Sharpens Iron photo B...

Description 

Hand jams, finger-lock, and stem through the first third to reach a stance. Commit to the twin seams, staying left of the hand-crack to the right (a separate route), and launch into a delicate and powerful boulder problem on twin seams in iron-hard basalt. Upon reaching holds at the end of the crux, continue straight up the thin-hand crack to the final section of engaging ending, finishing at the rim. The belay ledge at the base of this climb also accesses a old-school hand-crack to the west of Iron Sharpens Iron.

The old-school route has a bong piton or something similar with some tat on it. The line is well-defined, and is not hard to follow.

Location 

Located on the Iron wall. Looking at the cliff from across the canyon, Iron Sharpens Iron is approximately 30 feet left of Detritus Spite Us. Rappel off a tree 40' back from the rim, run the rope through a clearing without trees,then run the rope just to the east of a slightly dirty notch. The belay is a comfortable ledge about 70' down with two bolts for a belay anchor. Check out the beta photos to get oriented and find the climb.

Protection 

Belay bolts at bottom. Double set from 00 through #1 camalot. Medium nuts.


Photos of Iron Sharpens Iron Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Casey Niggemeyer belays Joel Unema on Iron Sharpen...
Casey Niggemeyer belays Joel Unema on Iron Sharpen...

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By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 28, 2013

Volunteer has been waiting a long time for a test piece like this... Way to get it done Joel! A striking line if you like the thin stuff.

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