Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Poudre Canyon
Select Route:
Footbridge  
Group Therapy (aka Wrangler Dangler, Dracula)  
Iron Mountain Icefall  
Jackshit Gully 
Mountain Park 
Poverty Gulch 
Stache , The 
Tunnel Ice 

Iron Mountain Icefall  

WI3

   
Type:  Ice, 2 pitches, 200', Grade III
Original: WI3 [details]
FA: ? 1970s
Season: Winter / Spring
Page Views: 1,044
Submitted By: Matthew Olsen on Apr 16, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Once above the trees, this is where the route is.

Description 

This is a simple two pitch climb. If the snow conditions are right, then the first pitch should be longer. Bring your skis or splitboard. This is a great skin in, climb, and then ski out on awesome terrain. Be careful of avalanche conditions!

P1 - ~180 feet, WI3. This is the money pitch. There are a few steps to overcome. Great ice!

P2 - ~30-60 feet, WI2. The first 30 feet of the second pitch might only be WI1, we unroped and walked it. The second half was maybe 30 feet.

Descent - from the top of the climb, head west across easy terrain to where you can start going north easily again joining the route that you came up on. Then reverse your approach route.

For more pictures and my full blog post go to: adventuresofamountaingoat.com/...

Location 

Go to the Zimmerman Lake parking lot in the Poudre Canyon. This is past Bald Mt. and close to Flattop Mt. short of Gould. At the parking lot, you can see the cliffs to the south and slightly west, this is where the climb is. It is about a 2 mile approach (and about 2,000 foot elevation gain) to the climb. From the main Zimmerman Lake trail, take a right into the trees pretty quickly (we followed skin tracks). Gain elevation while traveling southwest. Once at the treeline, continue southwest and skirt around a bowl (you should see the cliff-band where the climb is). Be very careful about avalanche terrain and traps!

I would not suggest doing this without skis or a splitboard. I couldn't find my snowshoes the day we climbed it and had to post-hole for 4 hours. I believe that this area is skinned up to once in a while, so use those.

Protection 

Screws should be all you need. Bring 20' anchor cord/webbing for the top of P1.


Photos of Iron Mountain Icefall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This is a much better photo of P1.  Photo by Chris...
BETA PHOTO: This is a much better photo of P1. Photo by Chris...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris with the screaming barfies.
Chris with the screaming barfies.
Rock Climbing Photo: A view of the very short crux of P2.
BETA PHOTO: A view of the very short crux of P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris on top of P1.
Chris on top of P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: This is a very up close picture of the first part ...
This is a very up close picture of the first part ...

Comments on Iron Mountain Icefall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Nelson
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Oct 29, 2014

This flow is commonly known as the Iron Mountain Icefall. It was first climbed in the '70s. Nice little piece of Poudre ice though - but I wouldn't call it Grade IV.
By Matthew Olsen
Nov 9, 2014

Thanks Andy, I will change it. I had asked around when I first climbed it but got nothing. An easy search on Google proves it with a video of Rodney.
By kpbo
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 1, 2016

Climbed this on 2/27/2016 in fat conditions. Avy risks were relatively low, but there were still a lot of wind-loaded pockets, so we decided to not walk off the top as described in the beta photo. Instead, we were able to rap off a tree near the top of P1 (there was some newish looking cord there... we added some new webbing anyhow). We were just barely able to make it down in one rap using a single 70m rope. Even with the rappel, it still makes for a LONG day.