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The Old Woman - West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Band Saw T 
Bridwell-Sustad T 
Cavity, The T 
Dandelion T 
Dandelion Stem TR 
Dandelion Wine TR 
Dogleg T 
Double Cross T 
Double Start T 
Iron Man's Traverse T 
Lower Band T 
Middle Band T 
Northwest Chimney T 
Orphan T 
Route 499 T,TR 
Sexy Grandma T 
Treinte Anos T 

Iron Man's Traverse 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Ken Rose and Rob Hershey, Feb, 1972, FFA: Charles Cole and Randy Vogel, March 1986
Page Views: 199
Submitted By: Ken Rose on Nov 25, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Older routes shown: 1) Iron Man's Traverse 2) T...

Description 

Climb into a small bowl just to the right of ORPHAN. Climb up and left across the fact to a belay in the DOUBLE START chimney. Drop down a few feet, then continue left to the top of DOGLEG.

Location 

Located just right of Orphan. Belay and descent same as DOGLEG.

Protection 

No bolts. We originally did the route with aid using good ole pitons, but it has since been done free.


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By Ken Rose
Nov 25, 2015

Why the name? Well, we originally did it with aid, getting ready for Yosemite and had a lot of 'iron' on our rack. We were also listening to 'Iron Man' by Black Sabbath! Ken
By Bob Gaines
Nov 25, 2015

Great story.

Love that song. "I am iron man....."
By C Miller
Administrator
From: CA
Nov 26, 2015

Ken, thanks for posting; the rating has been changed to reflect the fact the route now goes free (first done with aid at 5.6 A2 and later freed at 5.10c R).
By Randy
Dec 3, 2015

That this route hadn't gone free as of the mid-1980s was surprising. But, then again, it probably had never had a second ascent -- and Trente Anos and Middle Band (which had been freed years earlier) were notoriously hard to protect.

When Charles and I looked at it (and Lower Band which was also still aid), none of the climbing looked particularly hard and the gear not too difficult to place. It went free at a surprisingly easy grade, though the rock in places (the initial crack) was very gritty.

Freeing Lower Band at a moderate grade encouraged us to free this one too.

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