|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 300'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||brian benedon on Nov 1, 2015|
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By brian benedon
Nov 1, 2015
Exit Dome, East Stronghold
To gain the right side of Exit Dome, you could come in from the Wasteland side but it is best to hike up the trail to Entrance Dome, a few hundred feet below the start of Full Circle, turn left, cross the gully and work up and over to ED. A strong dog can make it with some help.
These climbs are a great way to summit Entrance Domes true summit.
Two Ropes required to Rap routes. A small rack and nuts and about 12 draws will do for all routes on ED. To climb Crack Man on Entrance Dome, you may want doubles through 3 and a #4.
From Right to Left
Maintenance Man .10. SM, BBn 2002 mixed, 3 1/2 pitches. is the route on the far right side, it climbs a slab up to a large tree filled ledge, then works up the arête.
Mostly easier climbing with a few cruxes. Rap Sole Man.
1st pitch has stops short of the large tree filled ledge, belay just below and to the right, on a smaller ledge. Move the belay. Pitch 2 continues up the arête.
Iron Man .8+, 2 stars 2 pitches. 300 BBn, MC 99
The lower half of Iron Man and Ladies Man are easy and less appealing, however the upper sections are great rock and great climbing.
Climbs dark water streaks. Crisscrosses and shares belay stations with Ladies Man.
2nd left up weakness then traverse right, then up to Rap station.
Ladies Man .10c 300 BBn, SM, EBn (wife)
1st. .10- bolts
2nd .10c bolts, 1sm tcu, 1 med cam, tie-offs.
Sole Man .8+ 3 Pitches SM, BBn
3rd natural .6- Rap station on left before crawl thru.
Crack Man .9+ BBn , SM 2002. Large rack with dbls in the 3 size. An angling weakness located on Entrance Dome, just right of the left arête. From the top of Exit D, walk up to the base of Entrance Domes left side. The route can be done in one pitch if you climb easy 5th class up and slightly left for about 40 to a two bolt belay station (also works for the SA route .8+, that climbs the left arête). There is one bolt at the start of Crack Man, use a long runner if you use it.
The climbs are 230' from the ground but are done with a 30 scramble and are lead in one pitch, one double rope rap, 60m, will get you down.