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Iron Maiden 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b AI2-3 M4 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 4 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b AI2-3 M4 PG13 [details]
FA: 
Season: December-June
Page Views: 195
Submitted By: Kyle Tarry on Oct 23, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: I-Rock Iron Maiden Topo

Description 

Mullee's guidebook calls this 5.6 AI2, but as with most routes on Illumination Rock, conditions determine the real grade. If the ice is thin, this can be a spicy mixed route.

Pitch 1: Climb up easy ice in the gully on the left to a snowfield, then angle up and right to the base of a chimney.

Pitch 2: Climb the chimney to the ridge, go up and left on the ridge to the base of the headwall.

Pitch 3: Traverse right along the headwall until you reach a chimney.

Pitch 4: Climb a chimney system (right, then left and up) to some easy/moderate snow below the west gable.

Some pitches may be combined via simulclimbing or longer section, depending on conditions and belay options available.

Location 

The route starts between the West Chamber and the South Chamber, in the left of the two gullies on the rock toe separating the chambers. Approach via Timberline and angle left and uphill about halfway up the magic mile lift.

Protection 

Mixed rack to 2". Opportunities may be sparse. Nuts and pins in thin conditions, may take screws and the occasional picket in fat conditions.


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