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Iron Buttress
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Iron Maiden 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mark Anderson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 165
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 10, 2016

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Iron Buttress topo.

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Description 

This varied line begins with ultra-techy face climbing on marvelous clean stone that ends at a thuggy, roof crank. Above the roof, a short, easy slab gains the anchor.

The crux start can presumably be avoided by following the crack on the left, though it’s debatable how much easier, if it all, this variant would be. There is no question the highest quality option is to climb directly, staying entirely right of the crack and using the sloper rail system for the left hand. The intimidating roof succumbs relatively easily thanks to a nice assortment of jugs above the lip.

Location 

This is the third bolted line from the left.

Protection 

A stick clip is mandatory. 4 bolts to 2 BA.


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