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Iron Maiden 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jonathan Garlough, Brad White, Andrew Pelton, Jonathan Baldassare
Page Views: 175
Submitted By: chinos on Feb 25, 2016

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Iron Maiden

Description 

This climb starts in the center of the toe of the main slab.

P1: Climb up the black streak past a bolt to easier terrain. Follow the left arching flake until it ends and trend left across the slab to the gear belay at the right end of Brad’s Arch?. 115’ 5.4

P2: Climb straight up the slab to a bolt. Move up and left to gain the big right facing corner and follow it until it ends. Continue up the slab to a pine tree anchor above. 105’ 5.5

P3: Walk up and left on the very low angled slab to a bulge with gear. Pull onto the bulge with a big horizontal crack and follow the white streak up the slab past three bolts to a ring anchor on a foot ledge at the base of the headwall. 110’ 5.6

P4: Climb up into the big alcove in the center of the headwall. Follow cracks up until under the roof and then move out the short roof crack gaining a large ledge. Continue up the short right facing corner with a crack and finish at a tree anchor. 100’ 5.10d

FA: Jonathan Garlough & Brad White climbed pitches 1 & 2. Jonathan Garlough, Andrew Pelton & Jonathan Baldassare completed the route adding pitches 3 & 4.

Location 

South Cliffs

Protection 

Standard Rack, Bolts


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