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Iron Maiden 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 1,755
Submitted By: Rob P. on Jun 17, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Lan and Kristina on Iron Maiden


(from the Falcon Guide) At least one person has liked this climb, though the torture never stops.

This climb is an off-width lover's delight! Or an absolute nightmare for everyone else. It starts with a fist crack and quickly widens to the first crux of chicken winging akwardness. After your wrists hurt and you're already sore, take a rest on a nice ledge and then go into the squeeze chimney to the top.


On the south side before laceration jam area. Look for the wide crack with the obvious chock stone 5-10 feet down.


Some old pitons scattered...deffinitly want big gear if leading.

Photos of Iron Maiden Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Johnson on "Iron Maiden" 5.11a at P...
Matt Johnson on "Iron Maiden" 5.11a at P...
Rock Climbing Photo: The top of the route.
The top of the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: The route starts at the ledge and at its lowest po...
BETA PHOTO: The route starts at the ledge and at its lowest po...
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Johnson on "Iron Maiden" 5.11a at P...
Matt Johnson on "Iron Maiden" 5.11a at P...

Comments on Iron Maiden Add Comment
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By josh columb
From: Saint Paul, Minnesota
Aug 25, 2009

I toproped this route earlier this summer, there are two pitons that I saw, one at the ledge at the start of the route and one 10-15 ft below top out on the face (climbers left). The first half of the climb, before the midway ledge has some chockstones in it wich could be slung on lead but we used them for hand holds and that reduced the difficulty quite a bit. Getting into the crack above thew ledge was the crux. Not as hard as ahabs.
By ferrells
Sep 1, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I loved this climb. Not quite as hard as
Generator Crack , however. May be 10a, but Im not sure it quite gets there.
By Backwards Eric
Aug 1, 2015

I liked this. I measured the crack at different points with some thought of coming back some day and leading it. Unfortunately I don't know if they make a big-bro wide enough.

The route starts at the ledge where the crack ends and at its lowest point is 3.5 inches wide, becomes 9 inches, and after the ledge mid-route is 15 inches wide (narrowing to 13 inches at some points). There is a piton off to the left face above that mid-route ledge. Towards the top, when your whole body is well into the crack, there's a smaller fist sized crack in a right side wall that could potentially be used for protection too.
By Backwards Eric
Sep 6, 2016

Ok, led it on Saturday and it's not too bad for protection. C4 sizes: #4, #6, blue big bro, continue to big ledge, move up and clip piton on outside of crack (left), #4 would go in the deeper inner crack if you wanted it (but it's super secure chimmney by that point). I didn't do any nut placements in flakes on the outside of the crack because they're actually kind of loose feeling.
By Joel Allen
From: La Crosse, WI
Sep 6, 2016

Nice lead Eric!

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