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Iron Maiden 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Paul Borne et al.
Page Views: 754
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Dec 6, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Iron Maiden (5.11d), Joshua Tree NP

Description 

This route is located in the back of a narrow canyon on the overhanging southeast face of the Snickers formation.

The first pitch (11+) begins on a block at the top of a short chimney. Clip a bolt and climb into a dihedral. Technical stemming and gastons lead past three more bolts to a short discontinuous crack. Clip one more bolt and move right using a diagonal hand rail to a small platform. Moves on loose rock above the platform lead to a belay ledge.

The sustained and short second pitch (11+) continues past four bolts adjacent to a shallow, flared crack on grainy but solid rock.

This climb would be a classic if the rock was consistently solid.

Protection 

Quickdraws for five bolts and small TCU's (#1 - #3) on the first pitch. Quickdraws for four bolts on the second pitch. Bolted anchors are at the top of each pitch. Two rappels to the bottom with one rope.


Photos of Iron Maiden Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: David moving through the crux at the fourth bolt.
David moving through the crux at the fourth bolt.
Rock Climbing Photo: David making the powerful moves across the hand ra...
David making the powerful moves across the hand ra...
Rock Climbing Photo: Iron Maiden is also a British Heavy Metal Band.
Iron Maiden is also a British Heavy Metal Band.
Rock Climbing Photo: The opening moves on Iron Maiden, before the addit...
The opening moves on Iron Maiden, before the addit...

Comments on Iron Maiden Add Comment
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By Mark J Gain
Mar 1, 2005

Interesting climb, going to the first set of anchors from the last piece of good pro is spiceay...With some traffic this climb will blossom.
By Randy
Mar 3, 2005
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

In a 1 to 3 star system this is a 3 star route. Great and varied climbing, with 2 good pitches. And as was pointed out, a bit more traffic would clean up the the section of looseness. 3.5 stars out of 5. A must for the grade.
By Drewsky
Aug 24, 2009

I want to add a 'shout out' for this route: it's really really good and well worth the blood loss from all the Cat's Claw Acacia that chokes the canyon on the approach.

I led it as one pitch from the ground and found the flared climbing on the second pitch very intriguing and also very difficult. If led as one pitch I recommend the strategic use of a couple of really long runners.

Awesome!

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