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Iron Horse P2 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 468
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Dec 16, 2014

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


Climb out right past a flake (5.8) or directly up past 3 bolts (5.11-) to a ledge, which can be reached via a long rightward traverse from Princely Ambitions. (if you've approached this way, it's easy to build a gear belay on the ledge). Stem up the white overhanging corner, placing gear and clipping a bolt before a stem and mantle out left (crux). Trend up and left of the quartz intrusion, using bomber small cams and wires (bring runners) and generally looking around for side-to-side options on knobs and flakes. Clip one (replaced) bolt and move up to the anchor on face holds.
From the anchor atop full Iron Horse (also reached via many other routes)


Begin from atop Full Iron Horse/Full Amandla. It's easy to get here also via Sag. (climbed through the Iron Horse roof). If you don't mind missing the first 20' of the pitch, you can reach this by traversing right from Princeley Ambitions, and making a gear belay on the ledge just above the bolted anchors.


Rack to #1 or #2, doubles in tips and finger cams. Wires and runners.

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By Johan
From: San Francisco, CA
Dec 23, 2014

Thanks Blake for uncovering and promoting this moderate pitch! Haven't yet tried it, but as a heads up: the "Description" properly says that one reaches this pitch by traversing right from Princely. The "Location" currently says "traversing left from Princely", which is wrong.
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Dec 24, 2014

Thanks Johan, I fixed it to "right".

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