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Irishman's Temple: Otto's Erotic Asphyxiation 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Peter Blank and Javier Lujan
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 250
Submitted By: Peter Blank on Sep 7, 2016

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Looking down from the top.

Description 

This is the best "Otto's Route" in the Monument. Find the obvious, vertical, wide crack just right of the approach tunnel.

P1. Start in some nice, loose, low angle choss for 20 feet to where the offwidth becomes vertical and potentially squeezy. Climb through the wide crack to a nice, small section of #4s that is covered in calcite. Continue to the top of the OW, and make a few easy moves up to the large ledge system on your left. A belay can be made here with almost any size cams.

P2. Climb the obvious loose pod to OW to gully to the top. Though easyish, the rock on this pitch is not great, and it may be best to have had a few real Monument experiences before attempting.

This route has quite a lot of loose rock, especially on the second pitch. We cleaned the cracks a little but tried to leave some character in place. There are no fixed anchors.

Descend via The Cleansing: 1 short rap to top of sub-tower and 1 long 65m rap to the ground.

Location 

Hike up talus from trail to easy right moving ledge system that takes you to the west face of the formation. A tunnel/chimney will take you to the northwest side of the temple to where the route begins.

Protection 

In BD sizes: 1 x #0.4, 2 x #0.5-#5, 1 x #6, and a Valley Giant #9 are nice. Bring 2 x 70m ropes.


Photos of Irishman's Temple: Otto's Erotic Asphyxiation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1.
Pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2.
Pitch 2.

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By Airbiscuit
Sep 8, 2016

"It may be best to have had a few real Monument experiences before attempting."

Funny stuff for those who know. Good job, 4 now? 3 of them FAs. Solid work.

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