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Irish Toothache 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Tucker Tech, Dara
Page Views: 2,046
Submitted By: Pete eye on Mar 10, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Pretty good exposure on this one


Fun and short, on the upper left end of the face. Best if done WITHOUT an Irish toothache


JTNP has recently added signage which guides you better to this area. New signs are in accordance to JT West guide.


Originally, 1st pro a fixed pin. Pin is gone, has been replaced with a bolt. 3 more bolts to two fixed pin anchor.

Photos of Irish Toothache Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pins and slings as of November 25, 2016.
BETA PHOTO: Pins and slings as of November 25, 2016.
Rock Climbing Photo: Irish Toothache
Irish Toothache
Rock Climbing Photo: Thuy, near the start of Irish Toothache
Thuy, near the start of Irish Toothache
Rock Climbing Photo: Irish Toothache
Irish Toothache
Rock Climbing Photo: Pete on Irish toothache in the rain. Photo by Todd...
Pete on Irish toothache in the rain. Photo by Todd...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jo, leading Irish Toothache, just past the second ...
Jo, leading Irish Toothache, just past the second ...

Comments on Irish Toothache Add Comment
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By squiddo Siddens
From: Mountain View, CA
Oct 18, 2009

I climbed Irish Toothache on Siberia last weekend. The first piece of protection noted as a Piton (Knifeblade) came out in my hands. Looks like you can get some gear to the right but until then, please note its not a "sport" route....
By toddgordon Gordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Mar 8, 2010

Missing piton on Irish Toothache has been replaced by a bolt;....3/7/10. Quick draws only now....
By Chris D
From: the couch
Feb 6, 2012

A fun route, and well-bolted. From the top of this route you can make an easy but grainy and poorly-protected traverse to the right around a corner to the anchors for Glen's Crack and Jack. From those anchors, you can rap down to the anchors for Old Hornington and The Bazooka. Unlike Irish Toothache, the pro is sparse on these routes.
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Nov 26, 2015

This is a good route on clean, solid rock - probably only 5.6. We cut the old mank off the anchor pins and replaced with new webbing. It would be nice if chains were installed, or better yet a bolted anchor somewhere below the pins.
By George Wu
From: Newport Beach, CA
Oct 30, 2016

As of this past weekend (October 29, 2016), 2 quicklinks hang from the anchor pins on an aging piece of webbing. The originally one inch white webbing is yellowed and stiff from weather, and therefore somewhat suspect. Each quick link is then individually backed up to one of the pins; one of 6 mm cord and the other on a Spectra sling. The backups looked to be in better condition, and were the only reason I was willing to trust the anchor to hold a lead fall.

Recommend everyone inspect and be prepared to replace as age and sun take their inevitable toll. I'm no expert on anchors, but perhaps having just the quicklinks directly on the pins would be safer overall? Every leader would then have to complete the anchor with a sling of presumably known quality.

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