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Unsorted Routes:

Irene Jansen 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C R

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C R [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 363
Submitted By: SethC on May 25, 2015

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Description 

Start low between the boulders as for Kathy Moffat, then do some funky moves to gain the rail, traverse, mantle. If you traverse R-L just from starting on the rail (that is, NOT starting all the way in the chasm from Kathy Moffat), then it's called Gilda, V1.

Location 

Located on the northeastern face of the Brigid O' Shaunessy Boulder.

Protection 

Pads and a fresh pair of underwear

Description 

start low between the boulders as for Kathy Moffat, then do some funky moves to gain the rail, traverse, mantle. If you traverse R-L just from starting on the rail (that is, NOT starting all the way in the chasm from Kathy Moffat), then it's called Gilda, V1.

Location 

Located on the northeastern face of the Brigid O' Shaunessy Boulder.

Protection 

Pads and a fresh pair of underwear


Photos of Irene Jansen Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Start shown is for Gilda (V1) Irene Jansen shares ...
BETA PHOTO: Start shown is for Gilda (V1) Irene Jansen shares ...

Comments on Irene Jansen Add Comment
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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
May 25, 2015

Seth, this route has already been done (many times) and it's called Irene Jansen, and goes at V5 if you do it right. Proper beta: start low between the boulders as for Kathy Moffat, then do some funky moves to gain the rail, traverse, mantle. If you traverse R-L just from starting on the rail (that is, NOT starting all the way in the chasm from Kathy Moffat), then it's called Gilda, V1.

I'll let you change the title, but thanks for posting. It's nice to have this problem up on MP.
By SethC
May 26, 2015

Thanks for the info Andy, I will change accordingly. I thought it was odd that a bold, fun line was skipped over when everything around it had been developed. Do you happen to know who made the FA?
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
May 26, 2015

I don't know who made the FA of the traverse. Probably some kid just goofing off. The true start——beginning from Kathy Moffat——might have been a Steve Edwards et al creation.

By the way, these problems are all listed in Ocean's Eleven, which is, last I checked, still the Definitive Tome for SB bouldering. I encourage you to go purchase a copy. It might be out of print soon, but I'm pretty sure REI and/or Mountain Air Sports carry copies.
By SethC
May 27, 2015

I have the Ocean's 11 book, but had to sacrifice a few pages when I was stuck at Pine Mountain last season with no mountain money, decisions were made. I should probably get a new copy.
By Bob Banks
May 27, 2015

Thanks for the compliment Seth, always good to hear from my admirers. Promise I won't forget that Christmas card this year. But it seems like if you were going to wipe your ass with the pages of my book, a wiser decision would have been to start tearing them out at the back, beginning with the picture of me, and carry on through The Swimming Hole section which is, without question, even less useful than the rest of it. But I dunno, maybe the flies in the Pine Mountain shitter had you frazzled, it's happened to the best of us.

As far as FA. It was me. Or Steve. I honestly don't remember, but it was one of us. My note in margin of the old B&W guide says "traverse starting on Kathy finishing on Gilda. Maybe V5-6?" In the Falcon guide Steve put it at V6. In O11 I put it down as V5. I never really thought it was good, fun or bold, but you know, to each his own.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
May 28, 2015

I never thought it was bold either. You can literally step off the problem at any time. I like the start, even though it's kind of a butt-dragger, since the crux is not dabbing on the boulders below you.

Oh, and the true test for boldness is using pine cones as mountain-money.

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