REI Community
Krottenseer Turm
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chasin the Trane S 
Hitch Hike the Plane  S 
Ira Technokratie  S 
Westwand S 

Ira Technokratie  

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c PG13 [details]
FA: Wolfgang Gullich, 1984
Page Views: 84
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 21, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The rose move on Ira... The line stays right of t...

Description 

This line shares the technical start of Wallstreet, but bails left just below that route’s crux roof encounter. The rock is excellent with sinker pockets and an outstanding position.

Begin with easy slab moves and a long runout to the first bolt. The line weaves left and then back right as the wall steepens, including a really cool rose move sequence above the second bolt. Get one last shake at Wallstreet’s third bolt, before breaking hard left. The crux lies just after the lines diverge, with a tricky shuffle sequence on miniscule pockets and edges to reach a seam. Above, a pumpy finish liebacks up the seam and over a slight bulge to the anchor.

Location 

Begins up the third bolted line from the right side of the cliff (the next line left of Chasin' the Trane), starting up an obvious black streak.

Protection 

4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. It's a long run to the first bolt, and then the bolts are a bit spaced after that. Apparently there used to be a thread below the first bolt, but it must have broken.


Comments on Ira Technokratie Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About