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Ira Technokratie  

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c PG13

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c PG13 [details]
FA: Wolfgang Gullich, 1984
Page Views: 84
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 21, 2014

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The rose move on Ira... The line stays right of t...


This line shares the technical start of Wallstreet, but bails left just below that route’s crux roof encounter. The rock is excellent with sinker pockets and an outstanding position.

Begin with easy slab moves and a long runout to the first bolt. The line weaves left and then back right as the wall steepens, including a really cool rose move sequence above the second bolt. Get one last shake at Wallstreet’s third bolt, before breaking hard left. The crux lies just after the lines diverge, with a tricky shuffle sequence on miniscule pockets and edges to reach a seam. Above, a pumpy finish liebacks up the seam and over a slight bulge to the anchor.


Begins up the third bolted line from the right side of the cliff (the next line left of Chasin' the Trane), starting up an obvious black streak.


4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. It's a long run to the first bolt, and then the bolts are a bit spaced after that. Apparently there used to be a thread below the first bolt, but it must have broken.

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