|Type:||Sport, 2 pitches|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Richard Wright and Tom Hanson, 1997|
|Submitted By:||Richard M. Wright on Jul 22, 2001|
|Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Io||Add Comment|
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By Kevin Frederick
From: Lusaka, ZM
Aug 12, 2002
|This line has good rock and fun moves. It has quite a bit of lichen. I didn't think it detracted that much, but my second found it extremely unpleasant. You can go to the second anchor in one push with a 60m; you don't even need to have your belayer walk up the ramp to the start of the bolts.|
Jul 30, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kind of surpised that folks call the rock good. We thought it was kind of mungy. My partner pulled off a good-sized hold as he was getting ready to clip and went for a pretty good ride. I also pulled several holds off. Neither of us are really gorilla tuggers and generally don't break holds.
The crack is kind of weird and was pretty wet when we did it. Lots of damp lichen under the feet. Felt really hard for the grade.
The anchor area is a total mess at this time. It looks like somebody was replacing the anchor and pulled the original bolts about 95% of the way out and left them. One is sticking straight out, about 3 inches. The other one is hammered over. Really odd. We would have pulled them but didn't have any tools with us.
By A. Bandos
Oct 16, 2016
|The northern SPlatte guidebook describes it as enjoyable face climbing. It's more of a dirty, licheny crack that needs trickery with jams and laybacks. I don't understand the high star rating.|