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Narcolepsy Area
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Anuresis T,TR 
Chimney Sweep T 
Don't Jump Back Crack T,TR 
Dream Slate T,TR 
Dreamscape S,TR 
Ethiopian Kid T 
Involuntary Release T,TR 
Mr. Sandman T,TR 
Narcolepsy T,TR 
Narcosis T,TR 
No Doze T 
Suture Fancy T,TR 
Turn Of The Sentry T 
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder T,TR 

Involuntary Release 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chris Penleton, Bret Ruckman, 1985
Page Views: 2,231
Submitted By: Mark Michaels on Jul 4, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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Jon Scoville finding the feet.


Nice right leaning crack, 3 feet right of the Narcolepsy arete.

Finally got around to doing this route, albeit only on TR. Definitely worth doing while in the Narcolepsy area! Sort of soft for a 10a, but a respectable lead requiring some small gear near the top with ledgefall potential.

First 2/3 is excellent, but the rock quality degrades slightly at the finish.


Crack is 2 inch at the start, thin in the middle and top. Small to micro stoppers, microcams, a couple medium size pieces for the start.

Anchor: 2 somewhat rusty bolts on top (the old Narcolepsy anchor); need long slings and a backup piece or 2 to TR this.

Photos of Involuntary Release Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon Scoville about 2/3 of the way up.
Jon Scoville about 2/3 of the way up.

Comments on Involuntary Release Add Comment
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By Mark Michaels
From: Draper, UT
Jul 5, 2004

Duh, actually, it's a right leaning crack. IE, the other lexdysia research.
By Nathan Fisher
Jul 31, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great little route, that doesn't see enough traffic. Great gear up to #2 Camalot on the below-roof crack. Popping the roof is the crux, and the gear from here is pumpy to place and far between. I did only use one brass, but I also ran out the upper crack. From the ledge to the top, it degrades with what looks like bad rock, but nothing came off. I am glad I finally decided to give this route a go.
By ddriver
From: SLC
Jun 28, 2010

Highly recommended, starts as a 3-star but finishes poorly. 2.5 stars.
By Dean Raynes
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 13, 2010

Definitly still a lot of loose stuff on this one still but a fun, easy 10a. Will get better with a little more traffic. Some new anchors on the face rather then on top would be a nice addition.
By zoso
Sep 14, 2010

The anchors can be replaced WHERE THEY ARE. No need to change location. And don't argue convenience. Getting a little sick of anchors popping up all over for "convenience".
By johnny utah
From: Salt Lake City
May 27, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great climb on a great crag! Not sure what folks are going on about; there is good gear on this route, albeit small gear. If you are concerned about the anchor placement, figure it out. There is absolutely no reason for any more anchors in that vicinity, there are already FOUR sets of anchors up there within 30ft of each other! It is a traditional route, climb it that way or don't bitch about it. 4-5' of runners set off the existing bolt anchors clear the lip for a TR, problem solved.
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Sep 22, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Love this rock. Amazing exposed climbing. Felt like a 5.9+ to me. Not sure whats going on with anchors at the top though, I saw 3 sets within like 5 feet of each other...
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 10, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great climbing. Typical BCC trad featuring just a couple of jams and a lot of face. I placed a 3# at the top. Bring a single rack in sizes larger than .75, doubles in smaller sizes. Anchors are in a fine spot and have no issues.

You can TR Dream Slate with a directional off those anchors pretty easily. Just have the last man climb up to the Involuntary Release anchors and clean from there.

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