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Invisible Flying Gargoyles 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jim Thornburg
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,661
Submitted By: jimi thornburg on Dec 14, 2013

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Beautiful rock

Closes at dusk, and most parking areas are self-paid MORE INFO >>>

Invisible Flying Gargoyles 

Start up the first three bolts of Handy Capable, but where that route veers right, continue straight up the slightly overhanging shallow dihedral via big moves on perfect rock. At the sixth bolt you can bail left (12b) or go straight up (12c - better!).

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Rock Climbing Photo: Alex Honnold on Invisible Flying Gargoyles
Alex Honnold on Invisible Flying Gargoyles

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By Rough
Dec 14, 2013

Hey Jim, good to see another new route going up! A quick question: Handy Capable trends left, so I am not sure if you meant that route or you do the first few bolts of Mr Wipples Wild Ride then go up.
By Steve Montesanto
Dec 14, 2013

Saw you guys up there on Friday. Didn't realize you were putting up a new route....I was cleaning the wall on the other side from you. Good to see some additional Developement from some outsiders.

Can't wait to give it a try.
By jimi thornburg
Dec 14, 2013

Hi Aaron, Steve. I think Handy Capable diagonals right after it's third bolt, up into a faint dihedral and then diagonals back left, near the top. Gargoyles clips the first three bolts, then goes straight up past three new (glue-in) bolts, to join (I think) Mr Whipple's.

Does that make sense?

Steve how is that route you were cleaning shaping up?

I'd love a tour from you guys sometime.
By Rough
Dec 15, 2013

Ahh that makes sense so kinda a "between" route starting on Handy and finishing on Mr Wipples? Sounds cool! I need to get back out to Auburn and get in on more new routes. Last I put up was Diagon Alley for my daughter and her Boyfriend to climb. Lots of potential for sure!
By jimi thornburg
Dec 15, 2013

Hey has anyone experienced the "Invisible Flying Gargoyles" in the upper gorge? Something or things that are big that fly around that upper amphitheater around dusk... you can hear it very clearly... but not see it? Both my friend and I were certain it wasn't bats, and it knocked down a bunch of rocks. Very creepy.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Dec 16, 2013

Cool! I remember trying this this on TR a couple of times over the years. Thought it was some of the best rock at auburn and pretty difficult. I think I did all or most of the moves but was never close to linking it. Have to give it a try next time I'm up there!
By John Leeman
From: Davis, California
Sep 28, 2015

Really enjoyed this route. I think I did the "bail left" version but I'm not sure. Is the vertical rail to the left of the 6th bolt off for the 12c version? Or is the jug up and left off? I never got more then an arms length left of the bolt line.
By jimi thornburg
Nov 8, 2015

Hey John cool that you did it!

Sounds like you did the left way.

The straight up way goes straight up from the sixth bolt or even slightly right of the bolt. The left way involves a distinct jog left to a side pull and then a hard move to a jug fairly far left, if I remember correctly.

The straight up way is really cool and quite tricky. Worth a try if you run out of things to do there.

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