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a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
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Inverted Layback 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dave Craft, Pete Geiser, 1959
Page Views: 6,007
Submitted By: John Peterson on Mar 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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In the crux.


Unlike most Gunks routes, this one is harder than it looks.

Start on the left wall of the corner immediately left of Te Dum. This is about 65' left of Disneyland.

P1: Climb up a deceptively difficult face with cracks. About 60' up is the crux: a wild undercling right. The only footholds are immediately under the flake, making the move far scarier for tall people. Fortunately the crux is short. Belay at a small stance under a roof after the crux. 5.9, 80'.

P2: Turn the roof on the right and climb easier ground to the top. 5.8, 60'.

Walk off to the right.


The crux is protected by either a large cam (#6) or a small RP / blue Alien.

Photos of Inverted Layback Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff Arliss approaching the crux.
Jeff Arliss approaching the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Janine just before the layback
Janine just before the layback
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing the layback. (Climber: Steven Cherry; Ph...
Finishing the layback. (Climber: Steven Cherry; Ph...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mid-layback. (Climber: Steven Cherry; Photographer...
Mid-layback. (Climber: Steven Cherry; Photographer...
Rock Climbing Photo: shot #2
shot #2
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the layback. (Climber: Steven Cherry; Pho...
Starting the layback. (Climber: Steven Cherry; Pho...
Rock Climbing Photo: Yahoooo that was awesome! Shot #4
Yahoooo that was awesome! Shot #4
Rock Climbing Photo: shot #3
shot #3
Rock Climbing Photo: pulling the inverted lieback #1
pulling the inverted lieback #1

Comments on Inverted Layback Add Comment
Show which comments
By Francis Baker (fran)
From: Las Vegas,NV
Aug 7, 2006

The crux moves are protected by a fixed pin backed up by a green #0.75 Camalot at your feet. Then there is a small crack on the face under the roof that takes a blue Alien. Look carefully at the photos. Sorry for the poor quality. I did this onsight with at least a dozen people watching. One of the spectators sent me the pics. I think the face moves avoiding the offwidth below are actually the crux. You will scrape the left side of you face doing the liback moves. My glasses still bear the scars!
By Rodrigo Cid
Aug 21, 2006

I think this was my first 5.9 on-sight in the Gunks. What a great route! But of course, I'm only 5'7"....
By Nate Miller
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 12, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

As far as protection right at the crux, I'm not so sure about a #4 protecting as described in the route description. Maybe a #6 would do it. There is a fixed small nut that I backed up with a #0 C3.
By chewtoynj
From: NJ
May 11, 2010

This was my first 5.9 onsight ever. And I was as green as green gets for a trad leader back then, and not ready for this route. That fixed nut up in the crux is mine from like 2001. Great route though. I went back and re-led it a few years ago.
By Steven Cherry
Jun 12, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I don't know anyone who uses a large cam, and wouldn't it be in your way, anyway? The blue Alien is very good, and you can also get a black (not as good a placement and of course smaller).

For me, the crux of p2 is harder than the crux of p1.
By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Nov 7, 2011

I like to start this climb on the far left side of the buttress and diagonal up across to the inverted layback. Hauled my old number 5 camalot up once just to say I used it but it was too small. A 6 might work, or a big bro, if you are determined to practice placing big gear, but not needed since small cams work (albeit in a blind placement). Once I found a small fixed rp someone had worked in half way out the layback. I clipped it and, for the first and only time fell off this crux. It held, but again not needed.
By Tony Lopez
From: NJ
Jul 14, 2014

A #6 barely worked but is not necessary as stated above. Going to the top in one pitch is fine if your second is solid.
By crackatoa Spiesbach
From: Boulder,Co
Mar 28, 2016

Do the offwidth and traverse over.. yeehaw. It takes #5 and #6 down low then has a pin about midway up. Grunt on up that sucker!

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