REI Community
Mystery Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cracked Code T 
Inversion Virgin T 
Mystery Spire T 

Inversion Virgin 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Mark Geikenjoyner, Derek Field (April 2017)
New Route: Yes
Season: Morning sun, afternoon shade
Page Views: 144
Submitted By: Derek Field on Apr 6, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Upsidedown in the meatgrinder! Wild stuff on P2. (...

Description 

Inversion Virgin climbs the east face of Mystery Spire. Named for some wacky offwidth maneuvers pulled on the first ascent. Such moves may or may not be completely necessary, but the roof crack is a bear nonetheless.

Pitch 1: Start in the middle of the face, stemming a tips crack through several little bulges. Jam a right-arching hand crack to the belay ledge. Many options for gear anchor in and below the limestone band. (5.10-, 90 feet)

Pitch 2: Hop over the limestone band, wiggle up the chimney, and negotiate the offwidth roof crack. Devious bombay hatch that protects well. Belay from two-bolt anchor just above roof. (5.11, 60 feet)

Options from here:
1. Rappel route with two 60m ropes.
2. Continue up to top of tower on left (4th class), walk across summit to gap between two southernmost towers, and jump across to tallest tower. Very fun! Protect the jump-across with cams in horizontals. Rappel Cracked Code (south face) with one rope. Tree anchor at top; two-bolt chain anchor midway.
3. Boulder up tower on right and rappel the original Mystery Spire route (north face) with one rope. Tree anchor at top; three-bolt chain anchor midway.

Location 

East face of Mystery Spire.

Protection 

Doubles from tiny to #3 camalot
Single #4, #5, #6 camalot
(new BD sizes)


Photos of Inversion Virgin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark going inverted on the FA.
Mark going inverted on the FA.
Rock Climbing Photo: The jump-across finish.  (Drone photo by Joey Tayl...
The jump-across finish. (Drone photo by Joey Tayl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading the first pitch on the FA. (Photo: Mark Ge...
Leading the first pitch on the FA. (Photo: Mark Ge...
Rock Climbing Photo: Inversion Virgin topo.
Inversion Virgin topo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark chillin on the main summit after making the j...
Mark chillin on the main summit after making the j...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark's lower half visible in the tight chimney...
Mark's lower half visible in the tight chimney...

Comments on Inversion Virgin Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About