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Cerberus Gendarme
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YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Randy Leavitt
Page Views: 3,226
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Dec 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Mike Sokoloff gets the test piece

Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This is a great line and one of the harder offerings at the base of Cerberus Gendarme. Pretty straightforward: finger jams in a splitter crack and they get thin before the anchors, which is probably the crux for most people, as it was for me.


This route is about 150 feet right of Cherry Crack and ascends the obvious thin splitter that cuts through the clean face.


A bunch of finger-size pieces, including blue Metolius but no bigger than purple Camalot.

Photos of Intruder Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Intruder (5.11+)
BETA PHOTO: Intruder (5.11+)
Rock Climbing Photo: Air time.   Photo: Niru Nukalapati
Air time. Photo: Niru Nukalapati
Rock Climbing Photo: finger and stemming testpiece
BETA PHOTO: finger and stemming testpiece

Comments on Intruder Add Comment
Show which comments
By bheller
From: SL UT
Nov 10, 2008

A few .3 BD's were the perfect for the upper thin crack. Blue metolius were tipped. Not the best warm-up.
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Feb 23, 2009

Much harder then Dire Wolf...But really good none the less
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Dec 15, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Wow this thing is incredible. Will take every .3 or .4 you throw at it. Stellar route, definitely one you keep replaying in your head after. Fantastic!

RE: What Andy says below, definitely worthwhile bringing a pair of .5's and I think a single .75, 1, and 2 or 3.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Dec 15, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Despite what it says in the description , I managed to place a .5, .75, 1 and 3 Camalot on this route. Plus two .3 and .4 Camalots and a #1 C3 as well. This is indeed a great route- clipping the chains is the crux IMO.
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Mar 6, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

I remember doing this back in the day. Pumped as I reached the belay, I grabbed the webbing threaded through a two pin belay —one popped out, the other slid. Needless to say, after placing some cams, I hauled up the drill. A great sustained line.

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