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Cecilia Wall
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Intransience T 

Intransience 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R [details]
FA: Carrigan, Lindorff
Page Views: 156
Submitted By: Phil Schuld on Jul 31, 2017

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Description 

The right side of the Cecilia wall is an inauspicious, black shield of sandstone, overhung for most of its 100-foot height. This area, like the rest of the Cecilia Wall, is devoid of the voluptuous orange features more commonly found lower on the Mount. Instead, sharp, blocky holds and thin seams are the predominating features. Intransience goes straight up the middle of this wall and is entirely gear-protected. The safety rating is well-deserved, especially since the hardest sections also felt like the most serious. I'll add more information in a comment below if more beta is desired.

Start between a large detached flake and the wall itself at a seam leading to an obvious traverse. Boulder up and make a bold and difficult traverse to the right, then head straight up to a letterbox slot and great gear. A fall between the traverse and the letterbox slot would likely put you back on the ground from about 25-30' up.

Continue more easily up blocky terrain to another rightward traverse on a shelf. Try to decide which uninspiring seams should take your uninspiring micro-gear while keeping the pump at bay. Launch off the shelf into difficult, pumpy face moves on impeccable holds as that shallow RP disappears below your feet. As you get higher, the angle and difficulty ease off and good protection becomes a possibility again. Top out and build a belay.

Location 

The right side of the Cecilia Wall. The letterbox and traverse should be easily recognized from the ground.

Protection 

The smallest gear you've got in addition to a standard light single rack.


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By Phil Schuld
From: NH
Jul 31, 2017

BETA SPOILER:

I was really drawn by this line but decided to rap in and check out the holds and gear before leading it. It's a lot steeper than it appears from below, and I was only able to check out the upper third before I got too far from the wall. I did find a key gear placement in the form of a pocket seemingly made for a pink tricam (why'd I bring a tricam to Australia? Who knows, but I was finally happy to have brought it along!). This pocket comes at the end of the hard face sequence above the shelf. It is difficult to place on lead, and the pocket, a crucial hold, becomes hard to use with the tricam in, but it definitely makes this section far safer, as the gear below seemed like rubbish all the way back to the letterbox slot.

Another bit of gear beta. The piece I used before the first traverse was a bomber purple metolius mastercam.

The low traverse is the technical crux of the route. It's strenuous but straightforward and relatively secure. The upper bit is probably about 20 or 21, but the pump accrued from trying to protect it well makes it feel very difficult.

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