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Into the Void S 
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Into the Void 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, Richard Wright
Page Views: 58
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Jul 22, 2002

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Voluntary Nesting Closure Feb. 15 - July 31, 2015 MORE INFO >>>


This route will get your heart racing, if only for the views and exposure. The line is basically vertical on a tall cliffband perched on the rim of a 2000' deep gorge (East Elk Creek). Toss out traditions - the only approach is "top-down". Approach: From the summit of Windy Point, scramble down the ramp to the south to a tree near the edge. Look for a three bolt anchor on a flat ledge just back from the lip. Equalize slings to extend over the lip and tie in a 50m rope for the approach rappel. Tie a big knot in the end of the rappel rope, because it is a full 50m with rope stretch straight down the wall to a tiny stance where the route begins. Leave the rap rope hanging (but untie the knot in the end so you can pull it back up). From the starting belay, it is another 40m to the base of the wall, but this section is unequipped due to poor quality rock.

Pitch 1: Climb up and left off the ledge following the line of bolts. A crux (.11c) appears after clip #4. A reachy, fingery, pumpy, and more difficult crux comes at clip #6. Beware: it can be difficult to aid your way through this section if you can't crank the moves. Three more clips lead to a ledge and a two-bolt belay.

Pitch 2: Three clips head up an overhanging, right-leaning corner. Four more clips head up and left above. From the seventh clip, two variations exist. Easiest follows bolts up to the right past an .11b crux, then up along a flake. For a better challenge on tiny holds head straight up the headwall (.12). Both versions rejoin on easier ground just below the lip. Belay on top.

For a nice crimpy enduro challenge, use a 60m rope and run the whole route in one pitch. Take 22 draws and pre-arrange signals with your belayer because communication is difficult when a breeze is blowing. If you chose this option, you should also choose the lefthand (.12) finish to reduce rope drag.

Don't expect to encounter Rifle crowds or a waiting line. It probably qualifies as a "rest-day" route for your average Rifle 5.13 sportmonster, but with a much higher adventure factor.


11 to 22 quickdraws (depending upon whether you climb it as one pitch or two), clips for three bolt anchors, two 50m+ ropes, a few full length runners, and prussiks or ascenders in case you can't pull the crux moves. A helmet is recommended.

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