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Into the Black 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Chuck Fitch and Adam Huxley
Page Views: 2,000
Submitted By: Jay Eggleston on Jun 17, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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George begins the crux. It might be a bit stiff f...

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Description 

The crux of this route is at the bottom near the first two bolts. The first bolt is easy to clip off a large jug at the top of the overhang. The first ascentionists call the start a "boulder problem", and I would have to agree. You have to clip the second bolt off of a small hold, and it feels a bit insecure. The route above the first two bolts is about 5.8 in difficulty and is very fun. Every time it looks hard a good hold seems to appear.

Location 

This is the [second] leftmost route on the wall. The start is in black colored rock below a overhang. You lower or rap from the anchor on top.

Protection 

10 bolts to a two bolt anchor.


Photos of Into the Black Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam at the start.
Adam at the start.
Rock Climbing Photo: The bottom of the route showing the first two bolt...
The bottom of the route showing the first two bolt...

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By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Jun 19, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

We must have climbed right after they drilled, still had drill debris, first 4 bolts were great, crux down low near the start of the route.
By George Bracksieck
Jul 20, 2013

I think that climbing past the first two bolts is harder than 10d, although being taller would help. About 2/3 up the pitch, a five-foot-wide chunk of rock, just right of the bolt line and which is hard to avoid, is loose. It makes a bulge with a shallow "ledge" on its top. It has a crack ALL the way around it.
By Ben D.
From: Colorado
Oct 30, 2013

I'll admit, I don't climb much at this level (usually 8s & 9s), but the start definitely felt harder than other 10c/ds I've climbed in the canyon. The climbing gets substantially easier after the 2nd bolt. Also, you can drop a TR on this route if rapping off of "Out Of The Blue".
By Lindsay Clark
From: Louisville, CO
Nov 10, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Super boulder problem crux at the start. Layback to the left - right hand friction hold & power up to a solid left hand edge for the 1st bolt. 2nd bolt is about 1' from the 1st bolt - wise choice, Adam! Once past the crux, route is still 5.9+ sustained climbing. There are positive holds & lots of edges for feet.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Jul 9, 2014

Did this for the second time today and the start is still pretty hard. It was a little easier than last time but not much. I think it is about 11a for difficulty.
By Kevin P
From: Loveland
Oct 12, 2014

I say 11a. Maybe easier if you have done it a few times, took me several tries to get it clean. The rest of the route is in the 9 range. Felt hard to me, probably from being totally pumped from the crux. Worth doing for sure.
By A. Bandos
From: Broomfield
Jan 25, 2015

Just a heads up to people who had to cut the ends of their rope. This climb is at least 90' tall. Besides that, it's fun and long.

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