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Schweizereck
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Intifada T 

Intifada 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 700'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: M. Wyser, T. Götz, W. Steiner, and R. Tischhauser 1990
Page Views: 229
Submitted By: Monty on Aug 7, 2015

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Description 

Intifada is classic at the grade, offering everything from technical slabs to steep face climbing. Each pitch is unique and memorable, and the sustained nature of the route packs a punch. Expect some runouts, especially on the first pitch.

P1 (7a/11d; 35m): A beautiful slab pitch that starts at a low bolt just left of the route Lilith (name written at base). Follow well-spaced bolts (11- R) up and left to an anchor on a nice ledge. The crux moves are well-protected.

P2 (6c+/11c; 30m): A great pitch that starts slabby, pumps in the middle, and slabs at the top. Follow bolts to a stance at an anchor.

P3 (6c/11b; 25m): Climb the crack left of the anchor. Clip a bolt left of the roof, pull the roof to the right, then follow cool flakes to a belay at a nice ledge.

P4 (7a/11d; 30m): Traverse left on a ledge, mantle, then head back right to gain a bolt on the vertical headwall. Enjoy the textured headwall, full of water droplets and crimpers. Belay at a nice ledge. An awesome pitch!

P5 (7a/11d; 30m): Traverse the splitter handcrack right until it is possible to stand up and clip a bolt. Continue right to an anchor with chains (use for rapping but clipping will cause heinous rope drag). Carefully move back left then up to a second bolt. Follow beautiful rock to a hanging belay out left under a roof.

P6 (7a/11d; 20m): Climb straight up from the anchor to a small roof, bypass this to the right, then continue straight up until an obvious traverse leads you right to an anchor at a ledge.

P7 (7a+/12a; 25m): Traverse right from the anchor past a good nut placement. Pull onto the face, clip the first bolt, then crux your way past a couple more bolts. Continue trending left to an anchor at a stance.

P8 (6c+/11c; 25m): Traverse up and right to gain the first bolt, then traverse hard right past several bolts to eventually join Lilith. Continue right and then back left on easier ground to find an anchor on a grassy ledge.

Descent: Either rap Lilith or Intifada with 2 ropes.

Location 

Intifada is located in the middle of Schweizereck, to the left of Lilith, which has the name written at the base.

Protection 

12 draws/slings and a small rack, including nuts and cams to .75. Two 50m ropes are required to descent.


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