Inti Watana in December?
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Thinking about the Inti Watana\Res. Arete combo in mid to late December. Does the route get enough sun to make it doable or should I wait until spring? |
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for some of us, easily warm enough and enough light this time of year......I consider it a fast track rock alpine route...but based on your experience you might want to reconsider for when you have more daylight |
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at least it is easy to bail off the route. the hardest part may be route finding on the approach/descent, especially in the dark. |
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One consideration is if there is ice on or above the route. I went up there to do it on a warm day of February and was turned around due to ice. The first pitch was covered in it and there were ice avalanches down the face into the gulley we were belaying from. When the sun hits the upper part of the wall the ice falls off. There was at least a food deep of Ice pellets in the gully. |
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cassondra wrote:at least it is easy to bail off the route. the hardest part may be route finding on the approach/descent, especially in the dark.Clarification: It's easy to bail off of Inti even on the last pitch. You would have to leave gear for the Resolution Arete portion and it wanders. No sun on Inti right now or Dec. We were just up there last weekend with general temps in the upper 60s and it was reasonable to climb with light insulated jackets. With not exactly an alpine start we left our packs at the bottom, not expecting to have time to do the linkup. When we topped out we realized it would have been fine, though a long, dark descent. The Inti portion is straightforward/mostly bolted and goes quickly if you're solid/efficient at multipitch on those grades. Do the recommended pitch linkups. For context, last Oct it took a little under 7 hours to do the climbing portion of the Inti/Res linkup and neither of us had been up there before. If you aren't familiar with the approach I would recommend looking at Eric & Lucie's and Dow's beta. |
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Thanks for the responses guys and girls. |
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Eagle's Dance and Levitation have all day sun. I've climbed both routes, and done L29 twice. I've done them in November, December, and Febuary. They can be pretty windy, which is an issue, but otherwise they stay warm when it is sunny.
I did go up on Dogma (Mt. Wilson) and did the first portion of that route before running out of time. We climbed 2 pitches past the crux pitch and then rapped the route. Lots of rappelling but super fun climbing. Most of the route is cruiser with much harder crux pitches. It would be a harder route for sure compared to Inti and I think the crux pitch is much harder than the one on L29. Closer to 11d/12a Have fun! - Luke |
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I remember the first two pitches cold and wet in March. I'd think you'll find a better route this time of year such as ED or L29, mentioned above. |
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Weather has been great for December in Vegas. We did it in January last year. Don't be dismayed. The approach is very well cairned, honestly hard to get lost... There won't be any ice or other shenanigans. |
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I remember doing that route a few springs ago and the first few pitches were shaded and cold as hell. My fingers were painfully numb. I would think the start would be frigid in December. |