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Interpreting Intermission 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Greg Urbanski
Page Views: 271
Submitted By: Joseph DeGaetano on Dec 2, 2014  with updates from Greg Urbanski

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Description 

The climbing is easy and enjoyable for the first 35 feet or so until you realize how detached the block that you are laybacking/chimneying is. Then you might FREAK OUT! When (and it might be next week, next year, or 100 years but freeze thaw cycle will eventually take this feature out) this thing pulls just hope that you or someone else isn't climbing on it.

Eventually you mantle the death block out and breathe an air of relief. Now, only your belayer might die. This is where the crux comes. Pull another mantle move using a thin hold and then be ready for good classic slab moves.

Location 

This climb, along with another bolted route just left of it, climb a detached blocky pillar feature. They start about 100 feet climbers right of Fruity Pants and about 100 feet climbers left of Lavender Days and Puppy Chow.

Protection 

8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


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By BrianWS
Sep 13, 2015

Fun route, but it is pretty unbelievable that someone decided to actually bolt the detached flake for the neighboring line. Placing gear behind the flake felt pretty sketchy on ziggurat, and a fall on the upper bolts could potentially damage this hollow and dubiously attached feature.

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