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The Bastille - N Face
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YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Christian and Dale in 1984? Candaleria?
Page Views: 2,736
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Dec 8, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Rob Kepley prepares to intercept.

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  • Description 

    This is basically a direct finish to the crack on the first pitch of X-M and actually finishes at the bolt anchors atop Wide Country.

    Follow the X-M crack up the face. When the crack turns from a bomber lieback to fingers and hands is where X-M moves right into the ugly chimney to finish atop the pillar. If you want to do Interceptor, continue up the crack until it peters out at the base of a nice face/scoop.

    Place a good TCU here (strenuous) and move up into the face via thin edges. A final crimp moves gets you over the bulge and into the middle of the scoop, where you can drape a sling around a flake for protection. Easier climbing leads up and left to the anchors on Wide Country.


    Standard Eldo rack with an emphasis on finger-hand sized cams and a long sling to drape over a flake.

    Photos of Interceptor Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rob Kepley in the heady Iron Cross of Interceptor.
    Rob Kepley in the heady Iron Cross of Interceptor.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Interceptor starts on XM and where XM breaks right...
    Interceptor starts on XM and where XM breaks right...

    Comments on Interceptor Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 8, 2016
    By Anonymous Coward
    Dec 11, 2001

    Also see the route description for The Spice Tour.
    By Ken Duncan
    From: Ft Collins, CO
    Apr 18, 2005
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    I think that this is one of the better pitches in Eldo. Deserves 3 stars.
    By Rob Kepley
    From: Westminster,CO
    May 26, 2006
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

    Just got back from Eldo this morning and climbed this route. What an outstanding pitch! Interceptor epitomizes Eldo climbing. Once you get out of the crack just keep your head in "check" until you can drape a sling over the flake. The moves are all there, just spicey. Three stars for sure. I would recommend this pitch to anyone who climbs this grade at Eldo.
    By Josh Janes
    General Admin
    Jun 7, 2006

    This is probably my favorite pitch on the Bastille -- classic Eldo. I think the only R section is the easy climbing early on. While a fall from the upper face/crux (before slinging the flake) could be big, it would also be nothing but air, in fact, I actually think it is a great pitch to push one's mental barriers on lead.

    The second photo of Rob Kepley leading shows the location of the green Alien or similar piece (his highest piece), but one should also note that gear to back it up (a green or red camalot) can be had underneath the flake he's standing on.
    By Joseph Crotty
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Jun 8, 2006
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

    Josh and Rob are right, an overlooked classic for sure. On my redpoint, I opted for a red Camalot about a foot below where Rob placed the micro Camalot in the photo, which I skipped. The classic conundrum of more pro or go is encountered.

    Those that can onsight I applaud as this un-Eldo gem is tough to decipher.
    By Matt Battaglia
    Sep 14, 2008

    I'm perdy dang sure the FA is Rob Candeleria, CATS Rob. Great route with one critical sequence to read, other than that just great keep-your-head-together Eldo climbing.
    By Chris Archer
    Sep 15, 2008
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13

    Based solely on the last 2 editions of Rossiter's guides to Eldo (1989 & 2000), the FA is listed as Christian and Dale in 1984 (or perhaps the Kid in '77).
    By adam brink
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 18, 2009
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

    Stellar climbing that seems to go on forever! This must have been 100 feet to the anchors and none of it boring. While this might be R rated for the first thirty feet (and it's only 5.7 there), after that it is safe with only the chance for a long, clean fall. Another Eldo gem.
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Aug 26, 2011

    I fell a good ways several times onto a red C3 in the green Alien placement mentioned above. I bent the $&%# out of it. I recommend either a flexible cam, like an Alien, or just going with the red C4 that's about a foot below that (I tested the red C4, it's good!).

    The beginning is a little scary, and I did a lot of traversing around. It looks like there are two possible ways to go, and of course the other way looks easier than the way you are attempting at the time... a little sketchy. You have to pull a "5.7" move (think the crux of the Bastille Crack) with no gear about fifteen-twenty feet above a bad landing.
    By WadeM
    From: Golden, Co
    Apr 22, 2016
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

    Great pitch!

    Single rack of finger and maybe doubles on 1.

    I placed a #2 (not great) and a 0.75 (bomber) before the crux runout, number 1 would have been better.

    You can get in something smaller higher, but honestly that would be a speedbump.

    High quality but definitely R (a safe clean long fall).
    By Richard Border
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 8, 2016

    Protected the crux runout with a # 1 Camalot right next to the last good hand jam. About 1 - 2 ft below the optional micro cam placement. Whipped 25' at the crux, and I can testify that the gear is good :) Fantastic route.

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