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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dave Loeks, Claude Suhl, 1973
Page Views: 4,087
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Nov 11, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (56)
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Josh Byford nearing the top.


1. Climb the large, right-facing flake to a ledge, move right to a large pine tree and belay. 60 feet, 5.4

2. Go easily to a large roof that is 20-25 feet or so above the tree. Once over the roof, climb a shallow open book and a crack system that leads to a 20-foot headwall. Up the headwall (crux) to a ledge, then diagonal up and left, simple climbing, to an obvious tree. 70 feet, 5.9

One rap to the ground with a 70 meter rope (but see conflicting reports below -ed), two raps with 60. The tree looks okay, but the next time I do this I'll walk over to the High E bolts.


Go the base of High Exposure, then walk right for 150 feet or so and look for the large, obvious, right-facing flake.


Standard 'Gunks rack.

Photos of Insuhlation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Working up the face.
Working up the face.

Comments on Insuhlation Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 31, 2016
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Mar 21, 2011

In my opinion, this is by far one of the THE best 5.9s the Gunks has to offer!
By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Mar 27, 2011

I'll definitely second the previous comment.
By Josh Janes
General Admin
Feb 24, 2012

The "headwall" at the top of the climb is the crux: Move slightly left onto the gorgeous orange face. Rapping/lowering with a single 70m rope leaves you 20+ feet above the ground - rap/lower to the tree on the ledge and then again to the ground.
By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Mar 20, 2012

Perhaps I have a 70 that's longer than 70; we made it to the ground in one rap.
By divnamite
From: New York, NY
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

I feel this route is way way easier than Obstacle Delusion. Excellent climbing with great pros.
By Michael Schneider
Apr 26, 2014

The crux described is part of the route I led after cleaning, and called Martinie face (Teeny Face), after Martine Suhl, the niece of Claude Suhl, who did the first ascent of Insuhlation, which crosses under the face to the right to continue up the steep corner.a different route.
By fatum
Apr 28, 2014

We had a 70 meter rope, but could not lower the leader all the way to the ground. Maybe like 15 - 20 feet short. The line was pretty straight. On rappel, you probably can get a little closer to the ground, but I still don't think it will reach it.
By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
May 1, 2014

Some 70s are longer than others, I suppose. We had room to spare when we abseiled from the tree.
By Pawel Janowski
From: WA
Jun 8, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This climb is nice but somewhat boring (typical Gunks juggy overhanging crux) compared to the sibling Obstacle Delusion. The roof is quite easy and crux definitely at the top.

60m got us to the intermediate tree rappel station, 70m gets you to the ground.
By Byron Igoe
Sep 23, 2014

Don't get confused for Teeny Face. The app has the lines clearly drawn.
By SethG
Sep 24, 2014

The description is spare (in Dana's customary fashion) but since he mentions the shallow open book I think he is correctly describing Insuhlation not Teeny Face.
By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Sep 24, 2014

The description is spare (in Dana's customary fashion) but since he mentions the shallow open book I think he is correctly describing Insuhlation not Teeny Face.

As usual, Seth is correct.
By Systematic
Oct 31, 2016

Fun, sustained climbing that had my attention from start to finish.

Protection is not trivial.

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