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Insuhlation 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dave Loeks, Claude Suhl, 1973
Page Views: 4,213
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Nov 11, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (59)
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Josh Byford nearing the top.

Description 

1. Climb the large, right-facing flake to a ledge, move right to a large pine tree and belay. 60 feet, 5.4

2. Go easily to a large roof that is 20-25 feet or so above the tree. Once over the roof, climb a shallow open book and a crack system that leads to a 20-foot headwall. Up the headwall (crux) to a ledge, then diagonal up and left, simple climbing, to an obvious tree. 70 feet, 5.9

One rap to the ground with a 70 meter rope (but see conflicting reports below -ed), two raps with 60. The tree looks okay, but the next time I do this I'll walk over to the High E bolts.

Location 

Go the base of High Exposure, then walk right for 150 feet or so and look for the large, obvious, right-facing flake.

Protection 

Standard 'Gunks rack.


Photos of Insuhlation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Working up the face.
Working up the face.

Comments on Insuhlation Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 21, 2017
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Mar 21, 2011

In my opinion, this is by far one of the THE best 5.9s the Gunks has to offer!
By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Mar 27, 2011

I'll definitely second the previous comment.
By Josh Janes
General Admin
Feb 24, 2012

The "headwall" at the top of the climb is the crux: Move slightly left onto the gorgeous orange face. Rapping/lowering with a single 70m rope leaves you 20+ feet above the ground - rap/lower to the tree on the ledge and then again to the ground.
By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Mar 20, 2012

Perhaps I have a 70 that's longer than 70; we made it to the ground in one rap.
By divnamite
From: New York, NY
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

I feel this route is way way easier than Obstacle Delusion. Excellent climbing with great pros.
By Michael Schneider
Apr 26, 2014

The crux described is part of the route I led after cleaning, and called Martinie face (Teeny Face), after Martine Suhl, the niece of Claude Suhl, who did the first ascent of Insuhlation, which crosses under the face to the right to continue up the steep corner.a different route.
By fatum
Apr 28, 2014

We had a 70 meter rope, but could not lower the leader all the way to the ground. Maybe like 15 - 20 feet short. The line was pretty straight. On rappel, you probably can get a little closer to the ground, but I still don't think it will reach it.
By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
May 1, 2014

Some 70s are longer than others, I suppose. We had room to spare when we abseiled from the tree.
By Pawel Janowski
From: WA
Jun 8, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This climb is nice but somewhat boring (typical Gunks juggy overhanging crux) compared to the sibling Obstacle Delusion. The roof is quite easy and crux definitely at the top.

60m got us to the intermediate tree rappel station, 70m gets you to the ground.
By Byron Igoe
Sep 23, 2014

Don't get confused for Teeny Face. The app has the lines clearly drawn.
By SethG
Sep 24, 2014

The description is spare (in Dana's customary fashion) but since he mentions the shallow open book I think he is correctly describing Insuhlation not Teeny Face.
By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Sep 24, 2014

The description is spare (in Dana's customary fashion) but since he mentions the shallow open book I think he is correctly describing Insuhlation not Teeny Face.

As usual, Seth is correct.
By Systematic
Oct 31, 2016

Fun, sustained climbing that had my attention from start to finish.

Protection is not trivial.
By Kalil Oldham
From: Brooklyn, NY
Jun 20, 2017

RAPPEL BETA:

I think this rap must be around 38 meters. Here's why: I've rappelled this line from the tree at the top several times with an Edelweiss 9.5mm 70m rope, even after I cut about a foot off each end, and it's close but it gets me down. However, last month, my new BD 9.6mm 70m left us with both ends about 10 feet off the ground, weighted. I've noticed some confusion about this in the comments as well. So, I measured the BD rope in my apartment with a yardstick and I got 65m. I sent the BD rope back and they measured it to 72m. Reluctantly, I trust their measurement more than my own. So, the rappel from the tree is more than 36 meters, and I'm estimating it's about 38m, making my older Edelweiss 9.5mm around 76 meters with stretch. I can only conclude, as other commenters have suggested, that some 70m ropes are longer than others. And some are longer than 70 meters. Watch your ends!
By losbill
Jun 20, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

So, I measured the BD rope in my apartment with a yardstick and I got 65m. I sent the BD rope back and they measured it to 72m.

Kalil please refer to Annex 2 Informative Annex on measuring ropes in this document.

The standard came to my attention last year. I had borrowed a light weight 60 meter line for an alpine adventure from a friend. I had the foresight to lay it out in the driveway and measure it before the trip. There was a rap on the planned route that would require all of 200 feet. It came to 184 feet.

I mentioned the event to a friend who is on the UIAA committee and he pointed out the standard. The measurement standard seems a little weird to me. But it will very likely account for the "shortage" in you line. My friend indicated that manufacturers for the most part err on the long side of rope length to reduce the number of inquires and returns associated with apparent "short" ropes.
By SethG
Jun 21, 2017

Bill you laid a rope down in your driveway?? Car oils are bad for ropes. I'm just saying, you are going to die.
By losbill
Jun 21, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Hey Seth we all have to go sooner or later. Hope your neck is feeling better. See you down there soon.

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