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Instant Karma Direct S,TR 
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Instant Karma Direct 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: FA: Gil Harder, Kip Connor FFA: Rodney Lanier, Wes Love
Season: Summer (Evening) Winter (Morning)
Page Views: 918
Submitted By: Eduardo Ramirez on Sep 18, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Dave Coleman on instant karma direct.


Start on the crack/face that leads to the left facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral to the ledge under the small overhang. Climb the technical crux leading past the small overhang to mellower climbing. Climb past the aged rusted anchor.


1)The most common option is to climb to the Energy Czar anchor. A top rope set-up will require a directional. Keep your anchor short for less rope drag over the ledge.

2)After climbing to the top, I truly recommend it. The rock is less traveled but the gear options are bomber and abundant. The climbing feels 5.7 and there is a great wide vertical crack for a bomber natural anchor. Bring up your second and walk off or use a 70 meter rope for a top rope set up.

I feel the anchor should be replaced. Since most people stop at the Energy Czar anchor, the replacement anchor should be moved to the top of the cliff! It could then be an easy access Top Rope set up for INSTANT KARMA DIRECT, TEMPORARY TRADITION, and CASTLE CORNER. The rock would clean up after more traffic. A win-win for everyone.


Twenty feet right of 'Energy Czar'. Look for the left-facing corner that leads to a crack above.


North Carolina Trad Rack.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Scott McCook leading Instant Karma Direct in the e...
Scott McCook leading Instant Karma Direct in the e...

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By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Jan 13, 2013

Awesome route!!! Takes good gear and provides some healthy pump with a solid rest after the business! Oh so fun!
By Barrett Pauer
From: Brevard, NC
Jan 15, 2017

Has a hold broken in the crux? Felt way harder than any 10 I have ever climbed. 11+ seemed to be more appropriate
By Robert Hutchins
May 24, 2017
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Nothing significant has broken on the route. It's probably right at the border of 10+/11-, but no harder than that. You just need some good stemming technique, and a little bit of composure for the move after the crux.

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