Start on the crack/face that leads to the left facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral to the ledge under the small overhang. Climb the technical crux leading past the small overhang to mellower climbing. Climb past the aged rusted anchor.
1)The most common option is to climb to the Energy Czar anchor. A top rope set-up will require a directional. Keep your anchor short for less rope drag over the ledge.
2)After climbing to the top, I truly recommend it. The rock is less traveled but the gear options are bomber and abundant. The climbing feels 5.7 and there is a great wide vertical crack for a bomber natural anchor. Bring up your second and walk off or use a 70 meter rope for a top rope set up.
I feel the anchor should be replaced. Since most people stop at the Energy Czar anchor, the replacement anchor should be moved to the top of the cliff! It could then be an easy access Top Rope set up for INSTANT KARMA DIRECT, TEMPORARY TRADITION, and CASTLE CORNER. The rock would clean up after more traffic. A win-win for everyone.
Twenty feet right of 'Energy Czar'. Look for the left-facing corner that leads to a crack above.
North Carolina Trad Rack.
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Jan 13, 2013
Awesome route!!! Takes good gear and provides some healthy pump with a solid rest after the business! Oh so fun!
By Barrett Pauer
From: Brevard, NC
3 days ago
Has a hold broken in the crux? Felt way harder than any 10 I have ever climbed. 11+ seemed to be more appropriate