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Instant Gratification 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mark Stevenson
Page Views: 1,303
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 6, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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David Barbour getting established on the lower hea...

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  • Description 

    Scramble up to reach the high first bolt. Climb to a ledge, scoot out right and climb up easy rock to gain the 2nd clip at the lip of an overhang. (You don't want to blow this clip). Climb up the short left facing corner of the overhang making another quick clip and follow jugs to a stance at the base of a crack in the face. Climb the crack making good use of far spaced locks to make a long reach to the ledge before the overhanging white wall above (crux). From the ledge, head up and left aiming for a large flake above. Shimmy behind the flake to its top and escape out right on good holds. Clip the last bolt and head straight up over broken rock for about 20 feet to the finish. This is a nice route, but there's some loose rock and in the easier sections the bolts have some space between them.


    From the approach trail, head right for a few hundred yards along the cliff. This route begins on the right side of an open book on orange rock behind a large boulder.


    9 bolts, shuts.

    Comments on Instant Gratification Add Comment
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    By camhead
    From: Vandalia, Appalachia
    Mar 16, 2012

    I've heard a lot of people compare this route t the very best .11s in the area, like Satisfaction Guaranteed, Legacy, and Bimbo Shrine. I did not think it was that good. Still, worth doing if you're in the area.
    By Sam Stephens
    Jul 16, 2013

    A geat route for sure, but no legacy. Worth the trip none the less. A great wam up for the harder routes or just a good ride any time.
    By camhead
    From: Vandalia, Appalachia
    Aug 24, 2013

    So, two friends had gotten hosed by this, so I thought I'd mention- at the very too, above the detached pillar, there is another bolted route that cuts off left. Don't take this; go right.
    By Matt Powers
    From: Madison, VA
    Aug 29, 2016

    This might just be me, but I think this is a hard and scary 11b. Lots of opportunities for bad falls, and hard moves that can easily put the rope behind your legs if you are not ultra attentive. The 20' wandery runout through less-than-bulletproof stone at the top could be mitigated with more bolts. Multiple spots where a fall would cause injury.
    By Jeff Dunbar
    From: Charlotte, NC
    Jun 19, 2017

    This route can be made much safer with a few finger-sized pieces of gear (one at the bottom and one at the top). You can also stick clip the bolt in the first overhang from the sit-down ledge on the right.

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