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installing some fix ropes at High Wire
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Jul 25, 2016
I think it will be a wise idea to do so considering the potential for bad falls both in the river and on the highway from above the tunnel. Not to mention the number of climbers that climb in the area.

Yesterday, I saw a couple with 3 kids under 6 years one of them in a baby backpack.They made it up ok. Also, my partner mentioned that she knows a guy that broke his back in a fall on the approach, now he is dead.

I'm not going to mention that I managed to slipped of a huge foothold because some raspberry bush leaves. I did stop myself from falling head first for 40 ft by grabbing the the same bush. Not even a scratch but I almost knock off the ledge a small asian girl that I don't even know her name.

I would do it but Idon't have the bolting gearor the permit to install bolts in CCC
JulianG
Joined Oct 27, 2009
135 points
Jul 25, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Picture of me at Catslab
Really not needed. It is an easy scramble up and down. Don't take the right route (on the way up, which everyone does) as it puts you over the highway. Fixed ropes are not going to make the approach any safer. If you don't like how you get to the area then go climb somewhere else. Parker Wrozek
Joined Mar 30, 2012
153 points
Jul 25, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: freshies
May want to run this by the Jeffco rangers first.

IMO, also not needed.
curt86iroc
From Golden, CO
Joined Dec 8, 2014
40 points
Jul 25, 2016
Parker Wrozek wrote:
Really not needed. It is an easy scramble up and down. Don't take the right route (on the way up, which everyone does) as it puts you over the highway. Fixed ropes are not going to make the approach any safer. If you don't like how you get to the area then go climb somewhere else.


Everyone goes right because it is the way to go, if you go straight it is loose dirt.

Anyway I don't usually climb at high wire and the scramble is easy, but a fall can be really bad. Hopefully no one else will break their back
JulianG
Joined Oct 27, 2009
135 points
Jul 25, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Castleton Tower
Don't know the area at all, but I've done some heinous approaches on scree and bushwhacking. Sometimes that is what it takes to keep an area peaceful and not overrun like so many areas are.

Also, in today's age, fixing ropes and then not maintaining them is your liability and ultimately they end up as trash and we have enough trash in our forests.
Kyler R
From SLC
Joined May 23, 2013
20 points
Jul 25, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Picture of me at Catslab
Julian, going the not right route is on rock. it is more of a class 4 climb instead of the hike around to the right by the road. It is in the Mabe guidebook (which also says don't go to the right), not sure about the new book.

Kyler R wrote:
Don't know the area at all, but I've done some heinous approaches on scree and bushwhacking. Sometimes that is what it takes to keep an area peaceful and not overrun like so many areas are. Also, in today's age, fixing ropes and then not maintaining them is your liability and ultimately they end up as trash and we have enough trash in our forests.


It is probably in the top 3 most visited crags in clear creek canyon.
Parker Wrozek
Joined Mar 30, 2012
153 points
Jul 25, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Viking helmet cover, yep.
Please tell me you're joking. Abram Herman
From Golden, CO
Joined May 23, 2009
42 points
Jul 25, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping off the Matron October, 2010
^^^^^^ This.

Fixed lines definitely not needed there. If people are unable to make that approach, not sure how having a fixed line would make it any safer for them - give an illusion of safety maybe?

People might consider that if they are bringing 3 kids under the age of 6 with one in a baby backpack, this might not be the best crag to visit that day if they aren't comfortable with the approach. There are other crags with similar grades that don't require any scrambling in the canyon.

But you are correct, there is the potential for a bad fall if you really mess up, just as there is in lots of other climbing areas, so be aware of yourself and your surroundings, and be safe.

ErikaNW
Joined Sep 28, 2010
172 points
Jul 25, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Trundling a death block. Photo by Dan Gambino.
This was done before. The bolt was chopped.

-Josh
J. Thompson
From denver, co
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,741 points
Jul 25, 2016
Kyler R wrote:
Don't know the area at all, but I've done some heinous approaches on scree and bushwhacking. Sometimes that is what it takes to keep an area peaceful and not overrun like so many areas are. Also, in today's age, fixing ropes and then not maintaining them is your liability and ultimately they end up as trash and we have enough trash in our forests.


Maybe the approach needs to be marked better.
This will give you an idea of the prestige wilderness I'm talking about :-) (the people are crossing the bridge)


The New Wall that has a fix rope across a slab because 5.14 sport climbers don't know how to deal with a little slab. There is also a fixed rope on in a gully straight up from the approach to The Highlander. It is not even close to the approach trail. Anybody knows why it is there?
Rock Climbing Photo: high wire
high wire
JulianG
Joined Oct 27, 2009
135 points
Jul 25, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Lion King with the pup.
Agreed with all the replies so far. Very much not needed. Would get removed undoubtedly.

The rope up the gully (on the approach to highlander as you say) is a fixed line to "High Wire Right" (the route power play and everything to the right of it). It's probably not necessary either but with that crag if you get stuck in the rain up there, down climbing the slab is pretty sketchy.
SteveZ
From Denver, CO
Joined Sep 7, 2007
496 points
Jul 25, 2016
Class 4!?!? Bwahahahaha! Not even class three! Hands aren't needed! If you need a fixed rope to get up there then what are you doing climbing?

I could care less if a bolt was there or a rope really, it's damn near touching pavement anyway. But seriously, it's nothing. You should most definitely reevaluate your decision to be climbing if you need a rope for that approach. How on earth will you make the first bolt?!

Edit: I see you are saying the wrong way is class 4, not the normal way. My bad. I standby everything else.
John Tex
From Estes
Joined Mar 19, 2013
41 points
Jul 25, 2016
I think we should install an elevator trevor stuart
From Aurora, Colorado
Joined Mar 18, 2014
107 points
Jul 25, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: At the BRC
JeffCo needs to fix the air conditioning.
I mean every single crag is just too hot, even the shady ones.
Much less an oven like Highwire.
Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
517 points
Jul 25, 2016
Parker Wrozek wrote:
Really not needed. It is an easy scramble up and down. Don't take the right route (on the way up, which everyone does) as it puts you over the highway. Fixed ropes are not going to make the approach any safer. If you don't like how you get to the area then go climb somewhere else.


Well if you're not going to install a rope, at least tape the route! Please use blue, I am color blind to red so that would be inconvenient for me.
matt c.
Joined Nov 19, 2009
154 points
Jul 25, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Darren sticking the second crux move Photo credit:...
Good one Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
4,101 points
Jul 26, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: getting ready for the creek
Parker Wrozek wrote:
Really not needed. It is an easy scramble up and down. Don't take the right route (on the way up, which everyone does) as it puts you over the highway. Fixed ropes are not going to make the approach any safer. If you don't like how you get to the area then go climb somewhere else.


^this^
Matt Pierce
From Denver, CO
Joined May 11, 2010
291 points
Jul 26, 2016
J. Thompson wrote:
This was done before. The bolt was chopped. -Josh


So it is ok to chop bolts if I think the climbing is easy? :-) or

If I can't make it to the crux of the climb I shouldn't be on the climb. Actually, the last one is not that bad rule of thumb.
JulianG
Joined Oct 27, 2009
135 points
Jul 26, 2016
JulianG wrote:
So it is ok to chop bolts if I think the climbing is easy? :-) or If I can't make it to the crux of the climb I shouldn't be on the climb. Actually, the last one is not that bad rule of thumb.


If the walk in is too hard for you, uhhh, yep.
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion
From Colorado
Joined Oct 29, 2012
43 points
Jul 26, 2016
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote:
If the walk in is too hard for you, uhhh, yep.

I bruised my left heel earlier this year, it takes for ever to heal. Walking has been a pain with every step.
JulianG
Joined Oct 27, 2009
135 points
Jul 26, 2016
It's no skin off my back, but seriously, what's it to you if there's a fixed rope on the approach? It's going to ruin your wilderness experience? Nobody is asking you to do anything; the OP said he'd do it himself.

As far as the approach, if you aren't hobbling, it's pretty easy in good weather, a little less so after some rain/snow/ice. But then again, just because you are having trouble walking doesn't mean you can't lap all the routes there w/ ease.
reboot
From Westminster, CO
Joined Jul 17, 2006
163 points
Jul 26, 2016
Looking at that picture of the approach with the red line it appears as if dropping stuff into the road is a potential problem. Is all the rock on the right side solid? Emil Briggs
Joined Sep 30, 2013
133 points
Jul 26, 2016
I highly doubt that the fixed hardware committee would approve for a fixed rope to be installed and I believe their stance is that any hardware placed without prior approval will be removed. Brady3
Joined Apr 18, 2014
16 points
Jul 26, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Picture of me at Catslab
Emil: The Mabe guidebook does not advise going that route. There is another easy way straight up.

reboot wrote:
It's no skin off my back, but seriously, what's it to you if there's a fixed rope on the approach? It's going to ruin your wilderness experience? Nobody is asking you to do anything; the OP said he'd do it himself. As far as the approach, if you aren't hobbling, it's pretty easy in good weather, a little less so after some rain/snow/ice. But then again, just because you are having trouble walking doesn't mean you can't lap all the routes there w/ ease.


It is no sweat off my back. Just not really needed. Plus to do it you will need to get approval from Jeffco.
Parker Wrozek
Joined Mar 30, 2012
153 points
Jul 26, 2016
If you can't figure out how to get up there without a rope, then you don't belong there. Go find a different sport... Stagg54
Joined Dec 12, 2006
7 points
Jul 26, 2016
I don't like to chime in on these circle jerks, but i came here as a wide eyed young budding outdoor climber a few years ago and was taken aback a bit by the approach. However, when i saw a woman carrying a baby in a pack with both hands full while heading down i knew i had to put my big boy pants on. I revisited a few months back and had a laugh reflecting back on it. Doesn't every guidebook, every piece of equipment tell us this sport is dangerous? That we assume all risks? If the approach alone is to scary go back to the gym. Anthony O'Neill
From Northern CO
Joined Apr 28, 2014
12 points


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