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Insomnia Canyon

Select Route:
Denied Bail T 
Insomnia Spire - 25 to Life T 
Life Without Parole T 
Valhalla T 

Insomnia Canyon Rock Climbing 


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Location: 34.99656, -111.77988 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,579
Administrators: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Blake M on Jun 2, 2016
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Description 

A striking shear coconino canyon high up in the west fork. Mostly known for its canyoneering route.

Getting There 

Insomnia is best approached from above. Drive out Woody Mountain Road (FS 231) turning left at the T with 231A. Continue to either FS 778 (25.3 mi) for the west side of the canyon or FS 9019M (26.5 mi) for the east side..

Note: Mileages are from RT 66 Woody Mtn intersection.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.6 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Insomnia Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Insomnia Canyon:
Insomnia Spire - 25 to Life   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Valhalla   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
Life Without Parole   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 6 pitches, 500'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Insomnia Canyon

Featured Route For Insomnia Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff Snyder on the 3rd pitch  Photo : Blake McCord

Life Without Parole 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b  Arizona : Northern Arizona : ... : Insomnia Canyon
Life Without Parole is a magical adventure up the south face of Insomnia spire, those who dream of this route never sleep again.Pitch One - 5.11Climb slabby crack through wide boxes to ledge and bolted belay.Pitch Two - V3+Move belay left 40 ft. 2 bolts.Pitch Three - 5.12Look up, yes, you get to climb that. Blast off the off belay ledge, following 3 bolts to the obvious splitter above. Jam your way to the anchor.Pitch Four - 5.11-Climb magic hands to magic fists to ma...[more]   Browse More Classics in Arizona

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