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Insidious Crack 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: John Hoffman, 1972 (free solo)
Page Views: 8,839
Submitted By: ClimbandMine on Feb 18, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (95)
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Top of the route

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This good beginner lead starts just right of Jellyroll Arch. Follow the Y-shaped crack (its left branch when it splits) to its end. Place a small cam in a horzontal crack and finish on a good belay ledge. Belay from a solid tree. It's a full 150 foot pitch, so have enough gear to be comfortable. Rappel on two ropes or descend the 3rd-4th class gully system to the north.


standard rack to 2"

Photos of Insidious Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of the climb.
Start of the climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brad is moving up past the Y.  Paul can be seen at...
Brad is moving up past the Y. Paul can be seen at...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brad on insidious crack from the bottom of jellyro...
Brad on insidious crack from the bottom of jellyro...
Rock Climbing Photo: 5.6 Insidious Crack on Grouse Slab.
BETA PHOTO: 5.6 Insidious Crack on Grouse Slab.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brad getting to the Y in the crack.  The climb sta...
Brad getting to the Y in the crack. The climb sta...

Comments on Insidious Crack Add Comment
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By Brad Allender
From: Alameda, CA
Nov 21, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Great climb, lots of fun. The description on here is right on. The gear is pretty good the whole way, taking lots of 2" and smaller. The belay ledge is nice and easily protected, or the tree is fine too (although it is more of a big shrub than a tree, still, looks solid). Third class up to the top and hike off, although, it isn't the shortest hike back to the bottom of the climb. If you want to rappel, the climb is definitely 150', so you will need 2 ropes.
By LifeIsGood
From: Reno, NV
May 15, 2010

Woo Hoo! My first trad lead. Kinda misleading though, because this is a very easy (but fun) crack that never stressed me out.

I traversed to the right where there are a pair of bolts, belayed from there and we rapped down.

Fond memories!
By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Sep 5, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Good for you Life Is Good having this be your first trad lead. I wouldn't recommend it, though, because after the start there is one section that always feels committing to me for a 5.6. This section always strikes me as quite, um, what's the word, insidious.
By anthony509
From: las vegas nv
Jul 4, 2012

better first trad climbs anywhere
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Jul 24, 2012

Basic crack climbing in a nice local. not super memorable.
By Schwisow
From: shitlake tahoe
Dec 19, 2013

f.a. john hoffman 1972 free solo
By Lucian G.
From: Vancouver, BC
Jan 13, 2014

This was my first lead as well, last summer. Great stances all the way up make this a fun one where you can take your time and work on gear placements, although as someone mentioned, there was a tricky section in there where you needed to commit and climb through. Make sure you don't accidentally go right at the fork like I did. Nice belay ledge with a small tree and other pro placements.
By RyanDecker
From: North Lake Tahoe
Jul 28, 2017

This was my first mock lead and while easy enough then, it pushed me when actually on the sharp end. The beginning is a bit tough to get off the ground but easy enough to make a couple moves to a good stance with good pro. Another move or two gets you to another good stance to get a solid second piece. From here the crack gets a bit flaring and is definitely the crux for me. There are some small face holds for the feet but if trying to stay in the crack its a bit strenuous. From here holds get more solid and the angle eases until you are walking to the top.

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