Insane Clown Posse
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Trundle up some hollow blocks forming a shallow left facing corner. At the top of the corner clip your first bolt and move up on a couple of jugs to the second bolt and get your game face on. The next section to the 3rd bolt is the crux and pretty much all the holds are bad and/or face the wrong direction. Once you've made it through the crux head up onto the slab for a complete hands off rest and contemplate the slabby section ahead. Run up the ramp to the left and attack the slab past a couple of bolts to lower angle climbing above and a last bolt.
John used a single biner on the first bolt to keep the rope out of his feet, I used a regular draw, so your choice. You may want a long runner on the first one or two bolts on the slabby section above the rest as the first is pretty far left of the other bolts, so you don't hit the ledge you were just standing on.
The right hand of the two sport routes that start around the flake right of Miss Piggy
. Start off of a higher ledge to the right at a shallow left facing corner that is about 10 feet high.
6 bolts and chain anchors.
By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 25, 2009
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Glad to see someone actually repeat this route. I figured a bolted sport route on good rock would have taken less than 8 years to get a second ascent. Good job Lee for buckin' up!
As to Lee's comments about the route, the crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts and feels about V6, really just a short boulder problem. The upper section is less steep but not truly slabby just less steep than the lower crux. The upper crux section is quite a bit easier probably 11d/12a still hard but a lot easier than the lower section.