|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 400'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c X [details]|
|FA:||Richard Rossiter, solo|
|Submitted By:||Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Oct 1, 2004|
|Comments on Thinquisition||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 5, 2004
|Crusher is right, this route is a free soloists dream (or nightmare ...). Being a wimp, I have considered toproping it, but even this doesn't seem possible. The climb is over 200 feet long, and even if you did manage to throw up a top rope, a fall would result in a nasty diagonal slide that could still be rather ugly.|
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 4, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
This climb can be TR'd or led/followed with reasonable anchors. If you don't want to lead, you can rap into them or climb the moderate E Face to get to each station and TR the pitch below (lower and TR, as this is too long to really rap from).
P1: 5.5, ~160' to small tree East of ledge, or to 4" diameter branches from a ground-based tree that overhang the formation's ridge. A #2 Camalot fits in slightly strange but fairly solid placement in a hueco in the ridge just below that branch crossing.
P2: 5.8, ~180' go 65' off of the belay to gear in a crack near the arete. The crack narrows slowly and can can take pro from 3" to 1/2" or smaller at 65' and then nothing more. The crux is indeed well beyond that, and a fall would be a disaster. The crux is either on the steep arete for a short bulge or works out right onto small holds for a less solid but less vertical crux. Don't blow it. 50' after the crux you get onto 5.5 and then 5.3 and eventually come to a ledge with a crack down at your feet that takes a great yellow Alien or two and can also take a stopper or a very flared #3 Camalot to the side. This is an excellent belay at perhaps 180' from the previous, mostly depending on the yellow Alien.
From there, a short scramble takes you out over the top to the summit, mostly 5.0 and 3rd class.
I do think 5.8 sounds about right. It's very similar to Que Rasca but less clean. This is not for everyday use.